Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
A copolymer of glycerin, caprylic and sebacic acids. A plant-based silicone alternative: gives light slip, smooths skin texture, fills fine lines. Common in clean formulas, primers and sunscreens. Non-comedogenic.
Supporting ingredient
It gives a product its texture, stability or shelf life. It has no claimed effect on the skin, so an efficacy tier does not apply. What is known about its safety is below
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is a synthetic biopolymer made from glycerin, caprylic acid (C8 from coconut), and sebacic acid (C10, from castor oil). Trade name LexFeel N350 (Inolex). Marketed as a plant-derived alternative to silicones like dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane. Mechanism. Forms a thin polymer film on the skin that gives a silky slip. Fills stratum-corneum irregularities, optically smoothing skin texture and softening fine lines. Unlike silicones, it is biodegradable (OECD 301B test – 60% degradation within 28 days). Where applied. Makeup primers, mineral sunscreens, foundations, silicone-free clean-beauty products, BB creams, day creams with soft-focus effect. Used at 1-10%. In Spain – in lines labeled "vegan" and "silicone-free" (Freshly Cosmetics, La Vie de Cheveux). Evidence base. The manufacturer (Inolex) provides in vitro biodegradability data and sensory tests (n=20-30) showing tactile comparability with dimethicone. No independent clinical RCTs on efficacy or advantages over silicones exist. Safety. No CIR review yet (the ingredient has been on the market since 2018). The manufacturer reports low irritation and sensitization potential. Non-comedogenic. EU SCCS has set no restrictions. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Topical systemic absorption is minimal due to large molecular weight. Acceptable at any stage in face and body products. Pros and limits. Advantage over cyclic siloxanes (D4, D5, D6) – biodegradability and no EU environmental restrictions. Limit – not a full replacement: the visual-sensory effect is milder; the "photoshop-filter" effect is weaker than dimethicone crosspolymer.
Frequently asked questions
Is Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer safe during pregnancy?
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer for?
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer and what does it do in cosmetics?
A copolymer of glycerin, caprylic and sebacic acids.
What's the INCI name for Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer?
The INCI name is Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer. It may also appear as: LexFeel N350.
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Similar role in the formula
Other functional ingredients
Caprylyl Methicone, Caramel, Carbomer, Carbonated Water, Glyceryl Behenate, PCA Dimethicone, PPG-1 Trideceth-13, Terpineol
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