Cosmetic ingredients
Evigrade evidence base for cosmetic ingredients. Efficacy is evaluated separately for each route: topical, injectable, and oral
How to read tiers A–F▾
Popular
Polydeoxyribonucleotide
A mix of DNA fragments from salmon or trout sperm with chains under 1500 kDa. Topical use rests on one small RCT, injections on RCTs in scars and wound healing. Most aesthetic trials tested long-chain polynucleotides (PN)
BInjectableBTopicalHydrolyzed Collagen
Collagen fragments broken down to peptides and amino acids. Moisturize the skin surface but do not integrate into the dermis's own collagen. Marketing often exaggerates the effect
DTopicalMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Malus Domestica stem cell extract is considered safe during pregnancy in topical skincare. Marketing brands it as «apple stem cells for skin», but the human clinical evidence base is thin – most data come from in vitro studies on cultured fibroblasts. Used in anti-aging serums and creams at 0.1-1 %
DTopicalAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
Synthetic hexapeptide modeled on part of the SNAP-25 protein and marketed as a topical alternative to botulinum toxin. It inhibited neurotransmitter release only in vitro. In skin ex vivo, it hardly got past the stratum corneum
CTopicalSnail Mucin
Snail secretion filtrate containing glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and antimicrobial peptides. Popular in Korean skincare for hydration and regeneration
BTopicalRetinol
A vitamin A derivative converted by skin into retinoic acid. One of the best-studied topical ingredients with proven anti-aging efficacy
ATopical
Hype without evidence
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. More stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and fits oil and emulsion formulas. However, hydrolysis in skin is limited and true vitamin C bioactivity is reduced. Often used as an antioxidant to stabilise oils in formulation
DTopicalCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Indian ivy gourd Coccinia indica fruit extract. Contains flavonoids and β-carotene. Light antioxidant action. Pregnancy-safe
DTopicalSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Eggplant fruit extract – a source of nasunin and chlorogenic acid. Antioxidant action. Pregnancy-safe
DTopicalChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Extract of the green single-cell alga Chlorella vulgaris. Contains chlorophylls, carotenoids, peptides, and beta-glucan. Marketing promotes it as a detox/anti-pollution active, but clinical skin evidence is limited – most data come from in-vitro studies. Pregnancy-safe
DTopicalPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Water-soluble azelaic acid derivative. Gentler but less effective than pure azelaic acid. Used in OTC brightening products
DTopicalDipeptide-2
Synthetic dipeptide valine-tryptophan used in eye-contour products. The claim that it reduces eyelid puffiness by inhibiting ACE comes from supplier materials. Peer-reviewed data are lacking
DTopicalAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Synthetic acetylated peptide of four amino acids, added to eye-area products against puffiness and dark circles. There are no published human studies. The only peer-reviewed data come from cell cultures
DTopicalAcetyl Octapeptide-3
Synthetic peptide, an elongated analogue of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). The manufacturer Lipotec claims SNARE-complex blockade at facial muscle synapses – a 'mechanism close to botulinum toxin'. Used in anti-age serums to smooth expression lines – glabellar, nasolabial, and outer eye wrinkles. Real effects are substantially weaker than botulinum therapy
DTopicalHexapeptide-9
Marketing hexapeptide with claimed effect on collagen synthesis. Evidence base is predominantly manufacturer-sponsored
DTopicalThermus Thermophillus Ferment
Ferment of the thermophilic bacterium Thermus thermophilus. The manufacturer claims protection from heat and UV stress, but there are no published studies
DTopicalSpirulina Platensis Extract
An extract of blue-green algae. Marketing promises detox, vitamin loading and rejuvenation. On skin, spirulina holds proteins and pigments with antioxidant activity in vitro, but clinical data for a visible anti-aging effect in cosmetics is thin. As an ingredient it is safe and well tolerated
DTopicalMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Malus Domestica stem cell extract is considered safe during pregnancy in topical skincare. Marketing brands it as «apple stem cells for skin», but the human clinical evidence base is thin – most data come from in vitro studies on cultured fibroblasts. Used in anti-aging serums and creams at 0.1-1 %
DTopical
Strongest evidence
Glycerin
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum
ATopicalHyaluronic Acid
Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration
AInjectableATopicalNiacinamide
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production
ATopicalPanthenol (Provitamin B5)
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
ATopicalDimethicone
Silicone polymer that forms a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. Gives products a silky texture and does not penetrate the dermis
ATopicalTitanium Dioxide
Mineral UV filter effective mainly in the UVB and short-wave UVA range. Often combined with zinc oxide for broad-spectrum protection
ATopicalSalicylic Acid
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with lipophilic properties: penetrates sebaceous glands, dissolves plugs, and exerts anti-inflammatory effects
ATopicalAvobenzone
Broad-spectrum chemical UVA filter. Covers the UVA1 range (340–400 nm) where mineral filters are weaker. Photounstable – requires stabilizers (octocrylene, Tinosorb S)
ATopicalGlycolic Acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture
ATopicalUrea
A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis
ATopical3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Stable vitamin C derivative. Better pH stability than L-ascorbic acid; penetrates skin and converts to the active form. Antioxidant and brightening effect
ATopicalRetinol
A vitamin A derivative converted by skin into retinoic acid. One of the best-studied topical ingredients with proven anti-aging efficacy
ATopical
Anti-aging
All →Tretinoin
Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment
ATopicalRetinaldehyde
Intermediate vitamin A form between retinol and retinoic acid. More potent than retinol but gentler than tretinoin
ATopicalAdapalene
Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin)
ATopicalL-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage
BTopicalCeramide NG
A bioidentical ceramide from the non-hydroxylated class. One of the main lipids of the stratum corneum – restores the barrier and lowers TEWL. Pregnancy-safe
ATopicalTrifarotene
Fourth-generation retinoid with selective action on RAR-gamma receptors. Galderma markets it as Aklief for facial and truncal acne
ATopicalTazarotene
Third-generation topical retinoid with strong antiproliferative action. Doctors prescribe it for psoriasis, acne and photoaging
ATopicalCentella Asiatica
Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation
BTopicalAdenosine
Natural nucleoside acting via skin adenosine receptors. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness
BTopicalLactic Acid
AHA with dual action: acid exfoliation and moisturization via hygroscopicity. Gentler than glycolic acid
BTopicalMadecassoside
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
BTopicalHyaluronic Acid
Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response
BTopical
Anti-acne
All →Azelaic Acid
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy
ATopicalZinc Pyrithione
Antifungal active in anti-dandruff shampoos. Suppresses Malassezia, reduces scaling and scalp itch. Since 2022 EU restricts cosmetic use to rinse-off formats only
ATopicalClindamycin Phosphate
Topical lincosamide antibiotic. Doctors prescribe it for inflammatory acne, often combined with benzoyl peroxide to prevent resistance
ATopicalIvermectin (topical)
Topical antiparasitic agent that works against Demodex mites and rosacea inflammation. Galderma markets it as Soolantra
ATopicalMetronidazole (topical)
Topical antibiotic from the nitroimidazole group. Doctors prescribe it for papulo-pustular rosacea and perioral dermatitis
ATopicalBenzoyl Peroxide
Antibacterial agent that kills C. acnes by generating oxygen free radicals. Does not induce antibiotic resistance – a key advantage over antibiotics
ATopicalMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Neem leaf extract (Azadirachta indica) – an Ayurvedic ingredient with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory action. Helps acne and irritation. Pregnancy-safe at cosmetic concentrations
BTopicalCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
Lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid with a caprylic (C8) chain. Unlike plain salicylic acid, it penetrates deeper into sebaceous gland openings thanks to its lipid solubility. Developed by L'Oreal and actively used in the La Roche-Posay Effaclar line. Targets comedones and post-acne marks more than inflammation
BTopicalTea Tree Oil
Essential oil with antibacterial activity against C. acnes. Terpinen-4-ol is the main active component. Acne efficacy confirmed, but irritation is possible
BTopicalCapryloyl Glycine
An amino-acid derivative (glycine + caprylic acid). It gently regulates sebum and microflora and supports preservation, common in products for oily and problem skin
BTopicalBetaine Salicylate
Ester of betaine and salicylic acid. A milder alternative: releases salicylic acid gradually on skin, providing surface keratolytic action
BTopicalPiroctone Olamine
Second-generation antifungal agent, a zinc pyrithione replacement. Effective against Malassezia – the fungus causing dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis
BTopical
Brightening
All →Hydroquinone
The strongest topical depigmenting agent. Inhibits tyrosinase and exerts cytotoxic effects on melanocytes. Prescription-only in many countries
ATopicalGluconolactone (PHA)
Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity
BTopicalNiacin
Vitamin B3 in acid form. It helps even out tone and support the skin barrier. Well tolerated at cosmetic levels
BTopicalGlucosamine HCl
An amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. It helps retain water and even tone. Well tolerated
BTopicalTranexamic Acid
Synthetic lysine derivative. Suppresses plasminogen activation in keratinocytes, reducing prostaglandin synthesis and melanocyte activity
BTopicalBOralAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin
BTopicalAlpha-Arbutin
Alpha isomer of arbutin. An order of magnitude more active than beta-arbutin with the same safety profile. Modern lightening cosmetics standard
BTopicalN-Acetyl Glucosamine
Amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase, so it lightens post-acne marks and melasma, especially when paired with niacinamide. Also supports skin HA synthesis
BTopicalPapain
Proteolytic enzyme from papaya. Gently dissolves keratin of dead cells and works as a gentle alternative to acid peels
BTopicalMandelic Acid
AHA with a large molecule (bigger than glycolic acid). Penetrates skin more slowly, making it gentler. Suitable for darker phototypes where glycolic acid more often triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
BTopicalPalmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract
Viniferine, an active in the grape-based Caudalie range. The maker links it to even tone and brightening; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
BTopicalGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Fermentation product of Galactomyces fungi. Contains vitamins, organic acids, and enzymes. Popular in Asian skincare (Missha First Treatment Essence)
BTopical
Moisturizing
All →Ectoin
A small water-binding molecule (osmolyte) from halophilic bacteria. In small randomized trials, creams with 5.5–7% ectoin reduced redness, dryness and itch on inflamed or damaged skin. Protection of proteins and DNA from UV has been shown only in cell cultures
ATopicalColloidal Oatmeal
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
ATopicalTocopherol (Vitamin E)
Fat-soluble antioxidant and primary lipid antioxidant of the stratum corneum. Stabilizes cell membranes and enhances photoprotection when combined with vitamin C
BTopicalCeramides
Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum. Ceramide deficiency is a key factor in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and xerosis
BTopicalHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid that penetrates deeper into the epidermis. Humectant with accumulated evidence on hydration
BTopicalShea Butter
Plant butter from shea tree nuts. Rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiables with anti-inflammatory properties. Intensely softens skin and restores the barrier
BTopicalSqualane
Hydrogenated form of squalene, a natural component of sebum. A lightweight emollient that does not clog pores and restores the lipid barrier
BTopicalSunflower Seed Oil
Plant oil high in linoleic acid. Restores the lipid barrier in xerosis. Recommended as a base oil for newborns instead of olive oil
BTopicalBetaine
Amino-acid humectant from sugar beet. Holds water in the stratum corneum, softens dryness and tightness, compatible with any formula
BTopicalLecithin
Mix of phospholipids, usually from soy or sunflower. Natural emulsifier and carrier: aids active delivery into the stratum corneum and forms liposomal systems
BTopicalGlycine
Simplest NMF amino acid – a humectant and pH buffer. Pregnancy-safe
BTopicalGlucose
Simple sugar – a natural humectant. Holds water in the stratum corneum and gently softens the skin. Pregnancy-safe
BTopical
Protection
All →Zinc Oxide
Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties
ATopicalMethoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate
Newest organic UV filter. Approved in the EU in 2022 and used in L'Oreal lines (La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400, Vichy Capital Soleil). Covers the longest-wavelength UVA range (UVA-I up to 400 nm), which most other filters do not reach. Used alongside Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, and other modern filters
ATopicalTinosorb S
Tinosorb S (BEMT, bemotrizinol) is a modern photostable broad-spectrum organic UV filter by BASF that absorbs both UVB and UVA radiation. Approved up to 10 % in the EU and most of Asia. In the US it has been part of the FDA over-the-counter sunscreen monograph since 9 August 2026, at up to 6 %. Stabilizes other filters in the formula
BTopicalEthylhexyl Triazone
A UVB filter with high light stability. It gives strong protection at low levels. Well tolerated
BTopicalDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
A UVA filter. It absorbs long-wave radiation and protects skin from photoaging. Well tolerated
BTopicalEthylhexyl Salicylate
A salicylate-type UVB filter. It absorbs short-wave radiation and dissolves other filters. Well tolerated
BTopicalGreen Tea Extract
Source of polyphenols, the main one being EGCG (epigallocatechin-3-gallate). An antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective agent
BTopicalIscotrizinol
Highly stable UVB filter by Merck (Uvasorb HEB). Maintains protection under sunlight and pairs well with broad-spectrum UVA filters
BTopicalCaffeine
Alkaloid from coffee beans and tea leaves. Stimulates microcirculation, constricts vessels and delivers antioxidant protection
BTopicalMexoryl XL
Patented lipophilic broad-spectrum filter by L'Oreal. Covers both UVB and UVA ranges and stays stable under sunlight
BTopicalErgothioneine
Natural amino acid synthesised by certain fungi and bacteria. In humans it accumulates in tissues via the specific OCTN1 transporter. In skin it acts as a strong antioxidant, scavenging hydroxyl radicals and protecting mitochondria and DNA. Used in premium antioxidant serums
BTopicalTinosorb M
Hybrid UV filter: works as both an organic absorber and a microparticle with physical reflection. Covers UVB and UVA, remains stable under sunlight
BTopical
By goal
Anti-aging
295 ingredients
Brightening
99 ingredients
Moisturizing
560 ingredients
Soothing
369 ingredients
Protection
125 ingredients
Barrier repair
152 ingredients
Anti-acne
64 ingredients
Post-retinoid recovery
18 ingredients
Fungal acne safe
18 ingredients
Compromised barrier rebuild
28 ingredients
Rosacea-friendly
34 ingredients
Perioral dermatitis safe
15 ingredients
Post-procedure recovery
31 ingredients
Post-sunburn repair
27 ingredients
By brand
24 brands