Ceramides, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, and other lipids that restore a damaged skin barrier after active routines or dermatitis.
152 ingredients in database · 121 with tier A/B evidence · 145 safe in pregnancy
The skin barrier is the stratum corneum plus the intercellular lipids between corneocytes: ceramides (50%), cholesterol (25%), free fatty acids (25%). When this balance is disrupted – by aggressive cleansing, frequent peels, atopic dermatitis, xerosis, or post-laser recovery – skin loses water, reacts with stinging and redness, and becomes «sensitive» to routine cosmetics.
Barrier repair works through three mechanisms. First, external lipid replacement: ceramides NP, AP, EOP + cholesterol + fatty acids in a 3:1:1 ratio. Such formulas produce clinical improvement in atopic dermatitis within 2–4 weeks. Examples include CeraVe Healing Ointment, Avene Cicalfate+, La Roche-Posay Lipikar.
The second mechanism is stimulation of endogenous lipid synthesis. Niacinamide at 4–5% increases ceramide production in situ. Panthenol (provitamin B5) drives keratinocyte differentiation and accelerates fibroblast migration. Madecassoside from Centella asiatica accelerates regeneration and reduces inflammation.
The third is occlusion: stop water loss and give the barrier time to recover. Petrolatum reduces TEWL by 99% and is considered the dermatology gold standard. Squalane, dimethicone, and mineral oil are lighter occlusives that suit oily and combination skin.
Colloidal oatmeal (Avena Sativa Kernel Flour) is the only OTC ingredient FDA-approved as a skin protectant. It works in atopic dermatitis and sensitised skin, calming itch and redness. Common in post-procedure formulas.
When the barrier is compromised, pull all actives from the routine: retinoids, AHA/BHA, high-strength vitamin C, essential oils, fragrance. Actives can return 2–3 weeks after skin stops reacting to a plain moisturiser.
Glycerin
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum.
Colloidal Oatmeal
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds.
Urea
A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis.
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5)
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation.
Ceramide NG
A bioidentical ceramide from the non-hydroxylated class. One of the main lipids of the stratum corneum – restores the barrier and lowers TEWL. Pregnancy-safe.
Evigrade currently tracks 152 ingredients in the «barrier repair» category. Of those, 121 carry evidence tier A or B.
145 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
147 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
A bioidentical ceramide from the non-hydroxylated class. One of the main lipids of the stratum corneum – restores the barrier and lowers TEWL. Pregnancy-safe
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
A mineral sucrose salt. It helps calm irritated skin and supports barrier recovery. Well tolerated
A peanut oil. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated; use caution with peanut allergy
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage
A plant wax from spent barley grain. It forms a soft protective film and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A thickened olive oil. It softens skin and adds body to creams. Well tolerated
Wax-like fraction of olive oil – squalene, phytosterols, tocopherols. Hydrogenation makes it oxidation-stable. Structures a cream like a soft wax and gives a cushioning feel. Biocompatible with skin lipids. Pregnancy-safe
A phospholipid akin to skin lipids. It forms liposomes, supports the barrier and helps active delivery. Well tolerated
Low-molecular-weight protein hydrolysate from yeast – a source of amino acids and peptides. Supports hydration and epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
A ceramide-related lipid. It strengthens the barrier and holds water in the skin. Well tolerated
An emollient and co-emulsifier from sunflower oil. It softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
Natural osmolyte from the cyanobacterium Nostoc – a strong humectant that activates aquaporin-3 in the skin. Pregnancy-safe
An emollient ester with linoleic acid. It softens skin and supports the barrier, good for oily and acne-prone skin. Well tolerated
An emollient ester with alpha-linolenic acid. It softens and soothes skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
Active component of licorice root. Anti-inflammatory effect supported by RCTs in atopic dermatitis and rosacea
A calcium salt of pantothenic acid, a form of vitamin B5. It holds water and supports barrier recovery. Well tolerated
Mild non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut or palm oil and glucose. One of the gentlest cleansing components – does not dry or compromise the barrier. Used in cleansers and shampoos for sensitive skin and baby formulas. Sometimes a secondary solubilizer in toners and micellar waters
A ceramide-precursor lipid. It supports the barrier and reduces dryness. Well tolerated
A ceramide-precursor lipid. It helps rebuild the barrier and retain moisture. Well tolerated
A ceramide, a natural lipid of the stratum corneum. It rebuilds the barrier and holds moisture, easing dryness and tightness. Well tolerated
A plant oil rich in linoleic acid. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
Salt of lactic acid, a natural component of the skin's NMF. Strong humectant that retains moisture and supports acidic barrier pH, with a lighter feel than glycerin
Wax-like fat from sheep wool. A strong occlusive whose composition mirrors human skin lipids: it restores the barrier and heals cracks, especially on dry areas and nursing nipples
Mix of phospholipids, usually from soy or sunflower. Natural emulsifier and carrier: aids active delivery into the stratum corneum and forms liposomal systems
Brewer's yeast lysate – a source of amino acids, beta-glucans and B vitamins. Supports epidermal regeneration and evens out skin tone. Pregnancy-safe
A phospholipid emulsifier. It blends oil and water and supports skin lipids. Well tolerated
A conditioning component with linoleic acid. It smooths skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
Essential omega-6 fatty acid. Key component of type-1 ceramides (Ceramide EOS, EOH) – the foundation of skin barrier function. In acne patients, sebum linoleic acid is often low, contributing to pilosebaceous inflammation. Topical application in acne and dry skin restores the balance. Present in safflower, sunflower, and grape seed oils
Essential omega-3 fatty acid. Restores skin barrier in EFA deficiency states, anti-inflammatory potential
Lipids from rice. They nourish skin and support the barrier. Well tolerated
Centella triterpene acid. With asiaticoside it forms TECA – a clinically proven wound-healing preparation
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Oil from evening primrose seeds. One of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (8–10%). Supports the barrier in atopic and dry skin, particularly in patients with omega-6 deficiency
Wheat germ oil, rich in vitamin E and fatty acids. It nourishes and softens dry skin and acts as an antioxidant. Heavy; fungal-acne- and comedone-prone skin should note the fatty-acid profile
Fatty oil from oat kernels. Softens skin, reinforces the lipid barrier; popular in formulas for atopic and dry skin
A cupuacu seed butter. It nourishes, restores softness and supports the barrier of dry skin. Well tolerated
Borage seed oil, an even richer GLA source: up to 20–25%. Similar to primrose oil but requires a smaller dose for the barrier effect
Seed oil of a South American vine – record content of omega-3 (up to 50%). Restores the lipid barrier and reduces water loss. Non-comedogenic, pregnancy-safe
A light watermelon seed oil rich in linoleic acid. It softens and supports the barrier without heaviness. Well tolerated
A baobab seed oil with fatty acids. It nourishes and softens dry skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A kokum plant butter. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A ginseng seed oil with fatty acids. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A plant oil rich in oleic acid. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A cranberry seed oil with balanced omega acids. It softens and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A sesame oil. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A meadowfoam seed plant oil. It softens skin and gives a stable protective film without drying. Well tolerated
A flaxseed oil rich in omega-3 fatty acids. It nourishes and soothes skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A raspberry seed oil with fatty acids and vitamin E. It softens and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A moringa seed oil with oleic acid. It nourishes and softens skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
A borage oil rich in gamma-linolenic acid. It softens and soothes skin and supports the barrier. Well tolerated
Showing first 60 of 152