Ingredients against pigmentation

Tyrosinase and TRP-1 inhibitor, known as Rucinol. Works on both melanin synthesis steps, so it delivers stronger depigmentation.

Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage.

Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.

Synthetic arbutin analogue. Inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin synthesis without direct melanocyte cytotoxicity.

Stable glycoside of ascorbic acid. Converted to vitamin C by alpha-glucosidase after skin penetration.

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin.

Proteolytic enzyme from pineapple stems. Breaks keratin bridges and delivers a light chemical-peel effect with an anti-inflammatory bonus.

The strongest topical depigmenting agent. Inhibits tyrosinase and exerts cytotoxic effects on melanocytes. Prescription-only in many countries.

Isoflavonoid from licorice root. Inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses inflammation. Main active in depigmenting products based on licorice extract.

Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture.

Tripeptide of glutamate, cysteine and glycine – key intracellular antioxidant. In cosmetics it promises skin brightening through tyrosinase inhibition and a switch in melanin synthesis.

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity.

Water-soluble azelaic acid derivative. Gentler but less effective than pure azelaic acid. Used in OTC brightening products.

Byproduct of Aspergillus fungal fermentation. Chelates copper, inhibiting tyrosinase. One of the early depigmenting agents with proven efficacy.

Oil from rosehip seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid. Used for scars and pigmentation.

AHA with a large molecule (bigger than glycolic acid). Penetrates skin more slowly, making it gentler. Suitable for darker phototypes where glycolic acid more often triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

AHA with dual action: acid exfoliation and moisturization via hygroscopicity. Gentler than glycolic acid.

Water-soluble stable vitamin C derivative. Skin phosphatase releases active ascorbic acid. Active at pH 7 – does not require acidic pH.

Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production.

Proteolytic enzyme from papaya. Gently dissolves keratin of dead cells and works as a gentle alternative to acid peels.

Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with lipophilic properties: penetrates sebaceous glands, dissolves plugs, and exerts anti-inflammatory effects.

Selective human tyrosinase inhibitor by Beiersdorf. Per the manufacturer data, 100 times more potent than kojic acid on the human enzyme.

Synthetic lysine derivative. Suppresses plasminogen activation in keratinocytes, reducing prostaglandin synthesis and melanocyte activity.

Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment.

Tyrosinase inhibitor by DSM, known under the Symwhite 377 brand. Works against hyperpigmentation and adds antioxidant protection.

Fermented rice filtrate with amino acids and B vitamins. A traditional Japanese cosmetics component, related to sake and koji.

Fermentation product of Galactomyces fungi. Contains vitamins, organic acids, and enzymes. Popular in Asian skincare (Missha First Treatment Essence).

Yeast fermentation product containing amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. The core ingredient in SK-II Pitera. Moisturizes and evens skin texture.

Mild acid from rice bran and legumes. Works as a metal chelator, antioxidant and gentle exfoliant for sensitive skin.

Antioxidant and melanin degrader, a hydroquinone alternative for stubborn melasma. The main practical downside is a sharp unpleasant odor.

Extract containing glycyrrhizin, glabridin, and licochalcone A. An anti-inflammatory and brightening ingredient. Glabridin is considered separately as a pure compound.

Turmeric root extract with curcuminoids. Antioxidant with anti-inflammatory potential; concentrated formulas can stain skin yellow.

Extract from the white lily bulb, traditionally used in brightening cosmetics to correct pigmentation. Sensitive skin may show an allergic reaction.

Rice bran extract with gamma-oryzanol, tocopherols and ferulic acid. A traditional component of Japanese and Korean cosmetics for glow.

Stable vitamin C derivative with an ethyl group. Irritates the skin less than pure L-ascorbic acid and retains activity in neutral-pH formulas.