Natural glycoside derivative of hydroquinone. A skin-lightening agent that inhibits tyrosinase. Milder than hydroquinone, works on skin through gradual hydrolysis.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Skin-lightening compound with accumulated evidence in melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Arbutin (β-arbutin) is a natural glycoside β-isomer of arbutin, hydroquinone-β-D-glucopyranoside. Found in leaves of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), lingonberry, pear. In skin, β-glucosidases slowly hydrolyze it, releasing free hydroquinone. Mechanism. Competitive tyrosinase inhibitor – the key enzyme in melanin synthesis. Effect develops through gradual hydrolysis and release of hydroquinone in low amounts (about 0.01–0.1% of arbutin dose). Activity is lower than α-arbutin or direct 4-n-butylresorcinol. Where applied. Depigmenting serums and creams (2–7%), brightening masks. Often combined with vitamin C, niacinamide, AHA. In Spain – Sesderma Azelac Ru, classic Korean brightening masks. Evidence base. Hirata 2002 (n=20, 8 weeks, 5%) showed moderate melasma reduction. Funasaka 2012 confirmed moderate brightening effect. Head-to-head against hydroquinone 4% (Garcia 2014): hydroquinone stronger by 30–40%. Safety. SCCS in 2015 rated β-arbutin as safe at up to 7% in leave-on. Hydroquinone release in skin is minimal and does not cause exogenous ochronosis at up to 7%. Controversy. Hydroquinone 4% has been banned in EU OTC cosmetics since 2001 (Council Directive 76/768/EEC amendment). Arbutin remains a legal alternative as a 'natural source' of hydroquinone in low amounts. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. Direct data scarce. Theoretical risk from hydroquinone release, FDA category C. Alternative for gestational melasma: azelaic acid 15–20% plus SPF 50+. Particularly suitable for. Melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, lentigo. Less effective than α-arbutin or 4-n-butylresorcinol, but cheaper and more widely available.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
CautionSuitable for
Use with caution
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Arbutin should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Arbutin suits: normal, dry, oily, combination. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Natural glycoside derivative of hydroquinone.
The INCI name is Arbutin. It may also appear as: Beta-Arbutin, β-Arbutin.
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