Arbutin
Natural glycoside derivative of hydroquinone. A skin-lightening agent that inhibits tyrosinase. Milder than hydroquinone, works on skin through gradual hydrolysis.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Skin-lightening compound with accumulated evidence in melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Boissy RE et al. Exp Dermatol. 2005;14(8):601-8. (deoxyArbutin – родственное соединение) PMID 16026582
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Caution
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination
- Use with caution
- Sensitive
About this ingredient
Arbutin (β-arbutin) is a natural glycoside β-isomer of arbutin, hydroquinone-β-D-glucopyranoside. Found in leaves of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), lingonberry, pear. In skin, β-glucosidases slowly hydrolyze it, releasing free hydroquinone. Mechanism. Competitive tyrosinase inhibitor – the key enzyme in melanin synthesis. Effect develops through gradual hydrolysis and release of hydroquinone in low amounts (about 0.01–0.1% of arbutin dose). Activity is lower than α-arbutin or direct 4-n-butylresorcinol. Where applied. Depigmenting serums and creams (2–7%), brightening masks. Often combined with vitamin C, niacinamide, AHA. In Spain – Sesderma Azelac Ru, classic Korean brightening masks. Evidence base. Hirata 2002 (n=20, 8 weeks, 5%) showed moderate melasma reduction. Funasaka 2012 confirmed moderate brightening effect. Head-to-head against hydroquinone 4% (Garcia 2014): hydroquinone stronger by 30–40%. Safety. SCCS in 2015 rated β-arbutin as safe at up to 7% in leave-on. Hydroquinone release in skin is minimal and does not cause exogenous ochronosis at up to 7%. Controversy. Hydroquinone 4% has been banned in EU OTC cosmetics since 2001 (Council Directive 76/768/EEC amendment). Arbutin remains a legal alternative as a 'natural source' of hydroquinone in low amounts. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. Direct data scarce. Theoretical risk from hydroquinone release, FDA category C. Alternative for gestational melasma: azelaic acid 15–20% plus SPF 50+. Particularly suitable for. Melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, lentigo. Less effective than α-arbutin or 4-n-butylresorcinol, but cheaper and more widely available.
Frequently asked questions
Is Arbutin safe during pregnancy?
Arbutin should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
What skin types is Arbutin for?
Arbutin suits: normal, dry, oily, combination. Use with caution in: sensitive.
What is Arbutin and what does it do in cosmetics?
Natural glycoside derivative of hydroquinone.
What's the INCI name for Arbutin?
The INCI name is Arbutin. It may also appear as: Beta-Arbutin, β-Arbutin.
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