Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.
Topical application
AProven efficacy. Two or more independent RCTs with instrumental endpoints.
Approved by FDA and EMA for rosacea and acne. Systematic reviews confirm efficacy for post-acne hyperpigmentation and melasma. Depigmentation mechanism involves selective cytotoxicity toward abnormally active melanocytes.
10–20% (Finacea 15%, Skinoren 20%)
Azelaic Acid is a natural C9 dicarboxylic acid produced by Malassezia furfur yeast and present in cereals. In cosmetics and pharmacology it is one of the most versatile ingredients: it works on acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation at once. Mechanism. Bacteriostatic against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis (disrupts bacterial protein synthesis). Inhibits tyrosinase in hyperactive melanocytes – suppresses post-acne pigmentation and melasma without affecting normal melanocytes, so it does not cause pigmentation on healthy skin. Reduces reactive oxygen species in neutrophils – hence anti-inflammatory action in rosacea. Regulates keratinisation in follicular openings – useful against comedones. Where applied. Prescription products: 15% gel (Finacea, Skinoren) for rosacea and acne, 20% cream (Skinoren, Azelderm) for acne and post-acne pigmentation. OTC cosmetics usually at 10% (Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10%). In Spain prescription Skinoren and Finacea are in any pharmacy. Evidence base. Double-blind RCTs in acne (Cunliffe 1989, Thiboutot 2003) showed efficacy comparable to 5% benzoyl peroxide and to 4% hydroquinone in hyperpigmentation. In rosacea, Elewski 2003 (n=664, 12 weeks): 15% gel reduces inflammatory lesions by 58% vs 40% placebo. AAD 2024 and NRS 2023 recommend azelaic acid as first-line for papulopustular rosacea. Safety. Irritation, stinging, erythema in the first 2 weeks in 5–10% of patients, usually transient. Does not photosensitise. CIR confirmed safety of OTC concentrations. Pregnancy and lactation – drug of choice. FDA category B, AEMPS and SEME 2023 recommend as first-line for gestational melasma, post-acne pigmentation, and pregnancy acne alongside zinc and SPF. Safe from the first trimester. No restrictions during lactation. Particularly suitable for. Rosacea, acne (especially inflammatory lesions), post-acne pigmentation, melasma in pregnancy and lactation, sensitive skin that does not tolerate retinol or hydroquinone. Start once every other day, gradually escalate to once or twice daily.
Irritation potential
LowThe Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Azelaic Acid should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Azelaic Acid suits: oily, combination, sensitive, normal.
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties.
The INCI name is Azelaic Acid. It may also appear as: Nonanedioic Acid, Азелаиновая кислота.
10–20% (Finacea 15%, Skinoren 20%)
Published: · updated:
Allergen risk
LowPregnancy
CautionSuitable for
Both molecules work against post-acne pigmentation and inflammation. Gentle tolerability even on reactive skin.