Azelaic Acid
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Authorised as a medicine for rosacea and acne by the FDA and, in Spain, by the AEMPS (Finacea 15% gel). Systematic reviews confirm efficacy for post-acne hyperpigmentation and melasma. Depigmentation mechanism involves selective cytotoxicity toward abnormally active melanocytes.
- Searle T et al. J Dermatol Treat. 2022;33(2):722-731. PMID 32730109
How to read tiers A–F
- AProven efficacy. Two or more independent RCTs with instrumental endpoints
Tolerability and safety
- Working concentrations
- 10–20% (Finacea 15%, Skinoren 20%)
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Caution
- Suitable for
- Oily, Combination, Sensitive, Normal
Combinations with other ingredients
About this ingredient
Azelaic Acid is a natural C9 dicarboxylic acid produced by Malassezia furfur yeast and present in cereals. In cosmetics and pharmacology it is one of the most versatile ingredients: it works on acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation at once. Mechanism. Bacteriostatic against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis (disrupts bacterial protein synthesis). Inhibits tyrosinase in hyperactive melanocytes – suppresses post-acne pigmentation and melasma without affecting normal melanocytes, so it does not cause pigmentation on healthy skin. Reduces reactive oxygen species in neutrophils – hence anti-inflammatory action in rosacea. Regulates keratinisation in follicular openings – useful against comedones. Where applied. Prescription products: 15% gel (Finacea, Skinoren) for rosacea and acne, 20% cream (Skinoren, Azelderm) for acne and post-acne pigmentation. OTC cosmetics usually at 10% (Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10%). In Spain prescription Skinoren and Finacea are in any pharmacy. Evidence base. Double-blind RCTs in acne (Cunliffe 1989, Thiboutot 2003) showed efficacy comparable to 5% benzoyl peroxide and to 4% hydroquinone in hyperpigmentation. In rosacea, Elewski 2003 (n=664, 12 weeks): 15% gel reduces inflammatory lesions by 58% vs 40% placebo. AAD 2024 and NRS 2023 recommend azelaic acid as first-line for papulopustular rosacea. Safety. Irritation, stinging, erythema in the first 2 weeks in 5–10% of patients, usually transient. Does not photosensitise. CIR confirmed safety of OTC concentrations. Pregnancy and lactation – drug of choice. FDA category B, AEMPS and SEME 2023 recommend as first-line for gestational melasma, post-acne pigmentation, and pregnancy acne alongside zinc and SPF. Safe from the first trimester. No restrictions during lactation. Particularly suitable for. Rosacea, acne (especially inflammatory lesions), post-acne pigmentation, melasma in pregnancy and lactation, sensitive skin that does not tolerate retinol or hydroquinone. Start once every other day, gradually escalate to once or twice daily.
Frequently asked questions
Is Azelaic Acid safe during pregnancy?
Azelaic Acid should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
What skin types is Azelaic Acid for?
Azelaic Acid suits: oily, combination, sensitive, normal.
What is Azelaic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties.
What's the INCI name for Azelaic Acid?
The INCI name is Azelaic Acid. It may also appear as: Nonanedioic Acid.
What concentration of Azelaic Acid is effective?
10–20% (Finacea 15%, Skinoren 20%)
See Azelaic Acid in a product composition right on the store page
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to iHerb, Sephora, Druni and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
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