Niacinamide

Evidence by route

Working concentrations

About this ingredient

Niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B3) is the amide of nicotinic acid. In the skin it converts into NAD+ and NADP+ – coenzymes for key cellular processes: DNA repair, ATP synthesis, and 200+ enzymes. Where applied. Serums, creams, toners (2-10%). The most common universal anti-aging/brightening ingredient of the 2020s. Brands include The Ordinary Niacinamide 10%, La Roche-Posay Niacinamide 10, Eucerin, Paula's Choice, Skin Inc. In Spain – CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol, La Roche-Posay Pure Niacinamide 10. Evidence base. Bissett (Dermatol Surg, 2005) in 50 women showed texture, tone, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle improvement over 12 weeks with 5% niacinamide. Suppresses melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes (by 35-68%), more effective in melasma and post-acne pigmentation. Reduces sebum in acne (Draelos 2006). Safety. CIR/SCCS confirm safety at concentrations up to 10%. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic. Irritation possible in 5-10% of patients at 10%+, resolves in 1-2 weeks. Does not photosensitize. Vitamin C controversy. The old "don't mix niacinamide with L-ascorbic acid" claim has been refuted – a myth from extreme-pH lab conditions (Yamamoto 1991). In modern buffered-pH formulations (4.5-6) the combination is safe and synergistic. The Ordinary, Paula's Choice have publicly confirmed compatibility. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. First-line agent for gestational melasma and post-acne pigmentation, alongside azelaic acid and SPF. Particularly suitable for. Rosacea, acne, hyperpigmentation, sensitive skin, photoaging. Suitable for starting anti-aging care in young patients and those who cannot tolerate retinoids.

Tolerability and safety

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