Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF). A seboregulator that reduces sebum production. Used in products for oily skin and acne.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Small clinical studies show 20–30% sebum reduction with daily use. Zinc's antibacterial activity against C. acnes confirmed in vitro. No large comparative RCTs.
Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA – a natural moisturising factor component). Combines the seboregulating action of zinc with PCA hydrating properties. Mechanism. Zinc suppresses 5α-reductase – the enzyme converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a key sebaceous-gland stimulator. The PCA portion retains moisture in the stratum corneum. Additionally, zinc has anti-inflammatory action via IL-6 and TNF-α suppression in skin. Where applied. Products for oily and combination skin, anti-acne, seboregulating serums. In Spain – in Vichy Normaderm, La Roche-Posay Effaclar, Bioderma Sébium, ISDIN Acniben lines. Use levels: 0.1-2%. Evidence base. Schianz 2002 RCT in 47 patients with mild-to-moderate acne over 6 weeks of 5% Zinc PCA showed 30-40% lesion reduction and 20-25% sebum reduction. The effect is more modest than topical retinoids or 2-5% benzoyl peroxide, but tolerance is far better – especially for sensitive skin and adolescents. Safety. CIR confirmed safety in 2007. Non-sensitising, non-comedogenic. Well tolerated by sensitive skin. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. One of the first-line agents for gestational acne – alongside azelaic acid and niacinamide. AEMPS and FDA impose no restrictions. Suited for. Oily and combination skin, mild-to-moderate acne, post-acne recovery, sensitive skin prone to inflammation, perioral dermatitis, post-procedure recovery.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
Category
Acne
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Category
Post-retinoid recovery
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Category
Compromised barrier rebuild
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Category
Perioral dermatitis safe
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Category
Post-procedure recovery
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Zinc PCA is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Zinc PCA suits: oily, combination. Use with caution in: dry.
Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF).
The INCI name is Zinc PCA. It may also appear as: Цинк PCA.
Published: · updated:
Use with caution
NiacinamideНиацинамид
Combination reduces sebum production and inflammation. Niacinamide regulates the barrier, zinc binds excess sebum.