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Zinc PCA

Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF). A seboregulator that reduces sebum production. Used in products for oily skin and acne.

Evidence by route

C

Topical application

Small clinical studies show 20–30% sebum reduction with daily use. Zinc's antibacterial activity against C. acnes confirmed in vitro. No large comparative RCTs.

  • Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of acne: a systematic review of the literature. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.. PMID 23652948
How to read tiers A–F
  • CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Safe
Suitable for
Oily, Combination
Use with caution
Dry

Combinations with other ingredients

Works well with

Niacinamide

Combination reduces sebum production and inflammation. Niacinamide regulates the barrier, zinc binds excess sebum.

About this ingredient

Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA – a natural moisturising factor component). Combines the seboregulating action of zinc with PCA hydrating properties. Mechanism. Zinc suppresses 5α-reductase – the enzyme converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a key sebaceous-gland stimulator. The PCA portion retains moisture in the stratum corneum. Additionally, zinc has anti-inflammatory action via IL-6 and TNF-α suppression in skin. Where applied. Products for oily and combination skin, anti-acne, seboregulating serums. In Spain – in Vichy Normaderm, La Roche-Posay Effaclar, Bioderma Sébium, ISDIN Acniben lines. Use levels: 0.1-2%. Evidence base. Schianz 2002 RCT in 47 patients with mild-to-moderate acne over 6 weeks of 5% Zinc PCA showed 30-40% lesion reduction and 20-25% sebum reduction. The effect is more modest than topical retinoids or 2-5% benzoyl peroxide, but tolerance is far better – especially for sensitive skin and adolescents. Safety. CIR confirmed safety in 2007. Non-sensitising, non-comedogenic. Well tolerated by sensitive skin. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. One of the first-line agents for gestational acne – alongside azelaic acid and niacinamide. AEMPS and FDA impose no restrictions. Suited for. Oily and combination skin, mild-to-moderate acne, post-acne recovery, sensitive skin prone to inflammation, perioral dermatitis, post-procedure recovery.

Frequently asked questions

Is Zinc PCA safe during pregnancy?

Zinc PCA is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.

What skin types is Zinc PCA for?

Zinc PCA suits: oily, combination. Use with caution in: dry.

What is Zinc PCA and what does it do in cosmetics?

Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF).

What's the INCI name for Zinc PCA?

The INCI name is Zinc PCA.

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