Centella Asiatica

Evidence by route

About this ingredient

Centella Asiatica (gotu kola, INCI Centella Asiatica Extract or its derivatives madecassoside/asiaticoside) is a tropical Asian herb. Active components are triterpenoids: madecassic acid, asiatic acid, madecassoside, asiaticoside. Traditionally used in Ayurveda and k-beauty. Where applied. Repair creams and serums (extract 0.1-2% or madecassoside 0.1%), post-procedure products, post-acne mark and atopy products. Brands include Dr. Jart+ Cicapair, La Roche-Posay Cicaplast, Bioderma Cicabio, Avène Cicalfate, Spanish Endocare Cellage Day Prodermis. Mechanism. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis via fibroblast TGF-β signaling. Suppresses inflammation via TNF-α and NF-κB. Enhances dermal microcirculation. Accelerates wound and erosion healing, including after laser, chemical peels, biopsy. Evidence base. Studies (Bylka 2014, Brinkhaus 2000) in 100 patients showed 25-40% faster wound healing and improved skin trophic state. In post-acne mark patients – red and purple spot reduction over 8 weeks. In atopic dermatitis – SCORAD reduction by 30%, comparable to mid-potency topical steroids. Safety. CIR/SCCS confirm safety at cosmetic concentrations. Allergic reactions are rare (1-3% of eczema patients); contact dermatitis to raw extract has been reported. Non-comedogenic. Does not photosensitize. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. Topical use at cosmetic concentrations is acceptable, but direct pregnancy data are limited. Oral centella in supplement doses is contraindicated in pregnancy – possible estrogen-like activity. Alternative for gestational post-acne marks – niacinamide, azelaic acid, adenosine. Particularly suitable for. Atopic dermatitis, rosacea, post-procedure recovery, post-acne marks, sensitive skin. Often combined with panthenol, niacinamide, ceramides – synergistic barrier effect.

Tolerability and safety

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