10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid
A fatty acid from royal jelly. The cosmetic ingredient studied is synthetic. The manufacturer ran the only human study. It measured hydration, and its abstract describes no control group. Anti-inflammatory effects were seen only in lab models
Evidence by route
Topical application
Human data are limited to one manufacturer study without a described control group. In that study, skin hydration rose after 7 and 21 days of use. Barrier and anti-inflammatory effects were shown only in cell and skin-explant models. One case of allergic contact dermatitis has been described
- Duplan H et al. Effects of Hydroxydecine(®) (10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid) on skin barrier structure and function in vitro and clinical efficacy in the treatment of UV-induced xerosis. Eur J Dermatol. 2011;21(6):906-15. PMID 21940237
- Zheng J et al. 10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid prevents ultraviolet A-induced damage and matrix metalloproteinases expression in human dermal fibroblasts. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2013;27(10):1269-77. PMID 23030720
- Raison-Peyron N et al. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by 10-hydroxydecenoic acid contained in an emollient cream. Contact Dermatitis. 2019;81(5):386-387. PMID 31215664
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
10-Hydroxydecenoic acid (10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, 10-HDA) is a fatty acid that occurs in nature only in royal jelly. The cosmetic ingredient tested in people is a synthetic version (Duplan 2011). In keratinocytes and skin equivalents it increased involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin. It also reduced TSLP release in an inflamed epidermis model. In skin explants it restored stratum corneum cohesion and lowered IL-4, IL-5 and IL-13 (Duplan 2011). Fibroblasts treated with it had less UVA damage and lower MMP-1 and MMP-3 (Zheng 2013). These are lab data. It is used in emollients and repair creams for dry skin. The maker of the ingredient and of finished products ran the only human study. In healthy volunteers with UV-induced dryness, skin hydration rose by 28.8% at day 7 and 60.4% at day 21 compared with baseline (Duplan 2011). The abstract describes no control group and gives neither the number of participants nor the concentration. The study measured hydration, not soothing. The anti-inflammatory effect was shown only ex vivo. A case of allergic contact dermatitis to 10-HDA in an emollient cream has been described (Raison-Peyron 2019). There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Frequently asked questions
Is 10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for 10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is 10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid for?
10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is 10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?
A fatty acid from royal jelly.
What's the INCI name for 10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid?
The INCI name is 10-Hydroxydecenoic Acid. It may also appear as: 10-HDA.
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