Soothing ingredients for sensitive skin

What to know

Soothing ingredients reduce inflammatory cascades in the skin. Centella asiatica (Cica) and its standardised extract TECA contain madecassoside and asiaticoside – triterpenic saponins that stimulate type I collagen synthesis and suppress inflammatory cytokines. It is the flagship of Korean sensitive-skin lines.

Bisabolol (from chamomile or synthetic) is a monoterpene with proven anti-inflammatory action. It also boosts the penetration of other actives across the skin barrier. Allantoin and panthenol (provitamin B5) accelerate regeneration and reduce irritation; both are safe in pregnancy and baby skincare.

Licochalcone A from liquorice (Glycyrrhiza inflata) is the key active in Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure, blocking NF-κB and suppressing the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a gentler cousin acting on the same pathways and common in value-priced reactive-skin formulas.

For rosacea-reactive skin, a doctor may add topical vasoconstrictors (brimonidine, oxymetazoline) or ivermectin when Demodex is involved. A plain moisturiser without retinoids, acids, or fragrance is the foundation of any «soothing» routine.

What to avoid with sensitive skin: citrus (lemon, bergamot, grapefruit) and lavender essential oils – their oxidised terpene forms are potent contact allergens. Fragrance (the Parfum ingredient) is the leading cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Ethanol above 10%.