Ingredients that reduce reactivity, redness, and discomfort. From centella to madecassoside.
370 ingredients in database · 259 with tier A/B evidence · 288 safe in pregnancy
Soothing ingredients reduce inflammatory cascades in the skin. Centella asiatica (Cica) and its standardised extract TECA contain madecassoside and asiaticoside – triterpenic saponins that stimulate type I collagen synthesis and suppress inflammatory cytokines. It is the flagship of Korean sensitive-skin lines.
Bisabolol (from chamomile or synthetic) is a monoterpene with proven anti-inflammatory action. It also boosts the penetration of other actives across the skin barrier. Allantoin and panthenol (provitamin B5) accelerate regeneration and reduce irritation; both are safe in pregnancy and baby skincare.
Licochalcone A from liquorice (Glycyrrhiza inflata) is the key active in Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure, blocking NF-κB and suppressing the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a gentler cousin acting on the same pathways and common in value-priced reactive-skin formulas.
For rosacea-reactive skin, a doctor may add topical vasoconstrictors (brimonidine, oxymetazoline) or ivermectin when Demodex is involved. A plain moisturiser without retinoids, acids, or fragrance is the foundation of any «soothing» routine.
What to avoid with sensitive skin: citrus (lemon, bergamot, grapefruit) and lavender essential oils – their oxidised terpene forms are potent contact allergens. Fragrance (the Parfum ingredient) is the leading cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Ethanol above 10%.
Azelaic Acid
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.
Brimonidine (topical)
Topical alpha-2 adrenergic agonist for rosacea erythema. Constricts superficial vessels and removes redness for 9–12 hours.
Colloidal Oatmeal
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds.
Metronidazole (topical)
Topical antibiotic from the nitroimidazole group. Doctors prescribe it for papulo-pustular rosacea and perioral dermatitis.
Zinc Oxide
Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5)
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation.
Evigrade currently tracks 370 ingredients in the «soothing» category. Of those, 259 carry evidence tier A or B.
288 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
349 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy
Topical alpha-2 adrenergic agonist for rosacea erythema. Constricts superficial vessels and removes redness for 9–12 hours
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
Topical antibiotic from the nitroimidazole group. Doctors prescribe it for papulo-pustular rosacea and perioral dermatitis
Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
A fatty acid found in royal jelly. The maker links it to soothing and barrier support; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
An azelaic acid derivative. It soothes and supports an even tone of problem skin. Well tolerated
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries
A mineral sucrose salt. It helps calm irritated skin and supports barrier recovery. Well tolerated
A glycyrrhizic acid salt from licorice. It helps calm irritated and reddened skin. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to reduced skin sensitivity; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to soothing and an even skin tone; data are limited. Well tolerated
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier
Proteolytic enzyme from pineapple stems. Breaks keratin bridges and delivers a light chemical-peel effect with an anti-inflammatory bonus
Grape water, an active in the grape-based Caudalie range. The maker links it to antioxidant protection; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A witch hazel leaf water with tannins. It tones and gently tightens pores. Well tolerated
A hinoki cypress water. It soothes and supports skin freshness. Well tolerated
A green tea leaf water with polyphenols. It soothes and supports the skin's antioxidant defense. Well tolerated
A Japanese apricot fruit water with organic acids. It tones and supports skin freshness. Well tolerated
A Japanese apricot flower water. It soothes and refreshes skin. Well tolerated
A tea tree leaf water. It soothes and refreshes problem skin; some people may experience irritation
A fatty hydroxy acid. It supports the skin microbiome and gently conditions skin. Well tolerated
A soothing active. It reduces irritation and supports comfort in sensitive skin. Well tolerated
A ceramide-related lipid. It helps rebuild the barrier and hold moisture and supports calm skin. Well tolerated
A gardenia plant extract. It helps calm and soften skin. Well tolerated
A yeast hydrolyzate with amino acids and peptides. It supports hydration and skin comfort. Well tolerated
A red algae hydrolysate. It draws water and helps soothe skin. Well tolerated
An active flaxseed extract. It soothes, holds moisture and supports skin firmness. Well tolerated
A hydrolyzed green algae extract. It supports hydration and helps calm skin. Well tolerated
A hydrolyzed pansy extract. It soothes and supports skin hydration. Well tolerated
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Isoflavonoid from licorice root. Inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses inflammation. Main active in depigmenting products based on licorice extract
Proteins bound to sugars (often yeast-derived). They retain moisture and support skin comfort. Well tolerated
Active component of licorice root. Anti-inflammatory effect supported by RCTs in atopic dermatitis and rosacea
An osmolyte humectant. It helps skin hold water and calm discomfort. Well tolerated
A plant compound from Siegesbeckia. It soothes and supports skin recovery. Well tolerated
Salt form of glycyrrhizic acid from licorice root. Anti-inflammatory and soothing; a staple of sensitive/reactive skin formulas
A plant flavonoid. The maker links it to vessel tone and reduced dark circles; independent skin data are limited. Well tolerated
A zinc-oxide mineral with iron oxide. It soothes irritation and dries blemishes. Well tolerated
A boswellia resin (frankincense). It helps calm skin; the maker links it to firmness, independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A plant flavonoid antioxidant. It helps soothe skin and protect it from free radicals. Well tolerated
A caffeine derivative. It tones the scalp and supports freshness in hair products. Well tolerated
A milk protein. The maker links it to supporting skin clarity and soothing; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A yeast lysate with amino acids and peptides. It supports hydration and skin comfort. Well tolerated
A bacterial lysate. The maker links it to support of skin repair after UV; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A chalcone from liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza inflata). Acts on multiple inflammation pathways: inhibits NF-κB and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α). In clinical studies it shows effects in rosacea and sensitive skin, and inhibits Propionibacterium acnes growth. Key active in the Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure lines
Essential omega-3 fatty acid. Restores skin barrier in EFA deficiency states, anti-inflammatory potential
A lithium and gluconic acid salt. It helps calm irritated and seborrhea-prone skin. Well tolerated at cosmetic levels
Centella triterpene acid. With asiaticoside it forms TECA – a clinically proven wound-healing preparation
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Oil from evening primrose seeds. One of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (8–10%). Supports the barrier in atopic and dry skin, particularly in patients with omega-6 deficiency
Borage seed oil, an even richer GLA source: up to 20–25%. Similar to primrose oil but requires a smaller dose for the barrier effect
A Rhealba oat sprout oil (A-Derma signature). It softens and soothes sensitive skin. Well tolerated
Seed oil of a South American vine – record content of omega-3 (up to 50%). Restores the lipid barrier and reduces water loss. Non-comedogenic, pregnancy-safe
An andiroba plant oil. It nourishes and softens skin and helps calm it. Well tolerated
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