Ingredients that reduce reactivity, redness, and discomfort. From centella to madecassoside.
153 ingredients in database · 49 with tier A/B evidence · 71 safe in pregnancy
Soothing ingredients reduce inflammatory cascades in the skin. Centella asiatica (Cica) and its standardised extract TECA contain madecassoside and asiaticoside – triterpenic saponins that stimulate type I collagen synthesis and suppress inflammatory cytokines. It is the flagship of Korean sensitive-skin lines.
Bisabolol (from chamomile or synthetic) is a monoterpene with proven anti-inflammatory action. It also boosts the penetration of other actives across the skin barrier. Allantoin and panthenol (provitamin B5) accelerate regeneration and reduce irritation; both are safe in pregnancy and baby skincare.
Licochalcone A from liquorice (Glycyrrhiza inflata) is the key active in Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure, blocking NF-κB and suppressing the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a gentler cousin acting on the same pathways and common in value-priced reactive-skin formulas.
For rosacea-reactive skin, a doctor may add topical vasoconstrictors (brimonidine, oxymetazoline) or ivermectin when Demodex is involved. A plain moisturiser without retinoids, acids, or fragrance is the foundation of any «soothing» routine.
What to avoid with sensitive skin: citrus (lemon, bergamot, grapefruit) and lavender essential oils – their oxidised terpene forms are potent contact allergens. Fragrance (the Parfum ingredient) is the leading cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Ethanol above 10%.
Azelaic Acid
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.
Asiatic Acid
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis.
Asiaticoside
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect.
Allantoin
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.
Aloe Vera
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries.
Evigrade currently tracks 153 ingredients in the «soothing» category. Of those, 49 carry evidence tier A or B.
71 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
136 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Lysate of a skin commensal bacterium studied as a skin-microbiome probiotic; clinical data preliminary
Aromatic tuberose flower extract; fragrance ingredient
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier
Bifidobacterium lysate, well-known from French cosmeceuticals (Lancôme Advanced Génifique). Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
Topical alpha-2 adrenergic agonist for rosacea erythema. Constricts superficial vessels and removes redness for 9–12 hours
Proteolytic enzyme from pineapple stems. Breaks keratin bridges and delivers a light chemical-peel effect with an anti-inflammatory bonus
Next-generation postbiotic – nanovesicles secreted by Lactobacillus into the medium during cultivation. Carry proteins, lipids and microRNAs of the parent cell, without live bacteria. In vitro studies show anti-inflammatory potential on keratinocytes and immune cells. Few human clinical RCTs so far
Aqueous fraction of ginseng extract containing ginsenoside saponins
Aloe leaf hydrosol. Used as a base in light textures and toners; gives a soothing feel but lacks the activity of aloe juice
Water-based centella extraction. Active madecassoside levels are lower than in alcoholic extracts
Bark and leaf extract with astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. Common in toners, but the distillate usually contains alcohol
Rose hydrosol – a by-product of distilling Damask rose petals. Light hydrating and soothing action, pleasant scent. Suitable for all skin types. Pregnancy-safe
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Isoflavonoid from licorice root. Inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses inflammation. Main active in depigmenting products based on licorice extract
Active component of licorice root. Anti-inflammatory effect supported by RCTs in atopic dermatitis and rosacea
Salt form of glycyrrhizic acid from licorice root. Anti-inflammatory and soothing; a staple of sensitive/reactive skin formulas
Sulfur-containing compound studied as anti-inflammatory in cosmetics. Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
Coralline algae; contains minerals and polysaccharides
Lavender hydrolate. Contains linalool and linalyl acetate; may irritate sensitive skin
Lactobacillus-fermented pumpkin extract. Source of acids and peptides; surface humectant
Inactivated lactic-acid bacteria (tyndalized, lysate). Marketed as a skin probiotic. Real clinical evidence comes from small RCTs in atopic dermatitis. Pregnancy-safe and low-allergenicity
Lactobacillus probiotic lysate with soothing and barrier-supporting action. Appears in sensitive-skin lines such as La Roche-Posay Toleriane
Postbiotic ingredient – lysate of a fermented Lactococcus culture. Positioned as skin microbiome support; clinical evidence is limited
Postbiotic lysate of a Saccharomyces yeast culture. Close relative of SK-II Pitera (galactomyces); claimed for skin radiance and texture
A chalcone from liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza inflata). Acts on multiple inflammation pathways: inhibits NF-κB and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α). In clinical studies it shows effects in rosacea and sensitive skin, and inhibits Propionibacterium acnes growth. Key active in the Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure lines
Essential omega-3 fatty acid. Restores skin barrier in EFA deficiency states, anti-inflammatory potential
Centella triterpene acid. With asiaticoside it forms TECA – a clinically proven wound-healing preparation
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Madecassoside derivative with vitamin C – combines the anti-inflammatory action of centella with antioxidant effect of ascorbate. Pregnancy-safe
Oil from evening primrose seeds. One of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (8–10%). Supports the barrier in atopic and dry skin, particularly in patients with omega-6 deficiency
Pomegranate seed oil. Up to 65–70% punicic acid – a unique conjugated omega-5 with anti-elastase activity shown in vitro
Plant oil from meadowfoam seeds. Rich in C20-C22 monounsaturated fatty acids; oxidation-stable, light non-occlusive emollient
Borage seed oil, an even richer GLA source: up to 20–25%. Similar to primrose oil but requires a smaller dose for the barrier effect
Vegetable oil from oil palm fruit. Highly occlusive emollient rich in palmitic and oleic acids. Suitable for dry skin, may aggravate acne-prone skin
Oil from rice bran rich in γ-oryzanol and tocopherols. Light emollient with antioxidant potential
Seed oil of a South American vine – record content of omega-3 (up to 50%). Restores the lipid barrier and reduces water loss. Non-comedogenic, pregnancy-safe
Oil from passion-flower seeds. Up to 70% linoleic acid – a high omega-6 contribution to the barrier, especially for acne-prone skin. Contains tocopherols and carotenoids as natural antioxidants. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe
Oil from Polynesian tamanu tree seeds. Contains callophyllolide – a unique compound with in vitro anti-inflammatory activity. Used in traditional medicine for wound healing
Dark green oil from Pacific islands. Contains calophyllolide and inophyllin – compounds with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing action. Used for acne, scars and post-acne marks
Oil extract of gotu kola – a carrier of triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside). Barrier repair and anti-inflammatory action. Pregnancy-safe
Plant butter from shea tree nuts. Rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiables with anti-inflammatory properties. Intensely softens skin and restores the barrier
Bee honey as a cosmetic ingredient. Works as a humectant and delivers a mild antibacterial effect via hydrogen peroxide and low pH
Tripeptide-copper complex that stimulates synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. Accelerates wound healing and exerts anti-inflammatory effects
Topical antibiotic from the nitroimidazole group. Doctors prescribe it for papulo-pustular rosacea and perioral dermatitis
Snail secretion filtrate containing glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and antimicrobial peptides. Popular in Korean skincare for hydration and regeneration
Carboxymethyl derivative of beta-glucan from yeast or oats – a water-soluble form with improved bioavailability. An immunomodulator with anti-inflammatory activity. Useful in atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery. Pregnancy-safe
Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties
Lipopeptide with palmitic acid for better penetration. Claimed soothing effect
Synthetic lipopeptide that suppresses interleukin-6 (IL-6), a pro-inflammatory cytokine. Part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex alongside palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Biomimetic peptide with anti-inflammatory activity for sensitive skin (Neutrazen). Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
Water-soluble vitamin B5, biochemical precursor of coenzyme A. Cosmetics more often use the proalcohol form D-Panthenol (dexpanthenol), which converts to pantothenic acid on skin. The acid itself is used less often – it is unstable in aqueous formulas, and D-Panthenol has better penetration. In acne and post-procedure skin, pantothenate stimulates reparative processes in keratinocytes
Second-generation antifungal agent, a zinc pyrithione replacement. Effective against Malassezia – the fungus causing dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis
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