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Moisturizing cosmetic ingredients

Humectants, occlusives, and emollients – three classes of moisturizers. Which work, which are marketing.

560 ingredients in database · 448 with tier A/B evidence · 542 safe in pregnancy

All ingredients in this category

560 ingredients

Highest-evidence picks

Hyaluronic Acid

Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration.

Glycerin

The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum.

Dimethicone

Silicone polymer that forms a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. Gives products a silky texture and does not penetrate the dermis.

Colloidal Oatmeal

Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds.

Urea

A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis.

Panthenol (Provitamin B5)

Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation.

What to know

Skin moisturisation works through three mechanisms. Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, betaine, urea) pull water from the environment and from deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum. Occlusives (petrolatum, squalane, dimethicone, lanolin) form a film that slows transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Emollients (oils, fatty alcohols, ceramides, cholesterol) restore the intercellular lipid matrix between corneocytes.

The strongest effect comes from combining all three classes in one formula. That is the backbone of dermatological moisturisers for atopic skin and post-procedure recovery – CeraVe, Eucerin Aquaphor, La Roche-Posay Toleriane.

Hyaluronic acid is a cult ingredient, but it delivers only a surface, short-term effect. Low-molecular-weight HA (<50 kDa) penetrates deeper but at high concentrations can trigger inflammation. In dry climate or air-conditioned rooms, HA may actually pull water OUT of skin unless sealed with an occlusive on top.

Ceramides NP, AP, EOP make up about 50% of stratum corneum lipids. Their deficit is a key factor in atopic dermatitis. Clinical-grade moisturisers for atopic skin are built around a ceramide + cholesterol + fatty acid ratio of 3:1:1.

What works poorly: ethanol at high concentrations (>10% near the top of the ingredient list), surfactants in «moisturising» face washes, and mineral oil on already-damaged skin as the sole occlusive.

Frequently asked

How many moisturizing ingredients are in the Evigrade database?

Evigrade currently tracks 560 ingredients in the «moisturizing» category. Of those, 448 carry evidence tier A or B.

Which moisturizing ingredients are safe during pregnancy?

542 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.

Which ingredients suit sensitive skin?

546 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.

How should I start using ingredients from this category?

Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.