Which cosmetic ingredients actually work against wrinkles, loss of firmness, and age-related pigmentation. Evidence-based traffic light for each.
298 ingredients in database · 228 with tier A/B evidence · 250 safe in pregnancy
Anti-aging ingredients act through several mechanisms: they stimulate collagen synthesis, accelerate epidermal renewal, and protect cells from oxidative stress. The strongest evidence base belongs to retinoids – tretinoin, retinol, adapalene, trifarotene. Studies with instrumental endpoints (histology, profilometry) show reduced wrinkle depth, more even tone, and increased dermal density after 3–6 months of use.
The second well-evidenced class is antioxidants. Combining vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid at 10–20%) with vitamin E and ferulic acid boosts photoprotection and neutralises the free radicals that damage collagen. A morning serum plus broad-spectrum SPF is the baseline daytime anti-aging formula with proven effect.
Niacinamide at 4–5% strengthens the barrier, refines pores, and brightens pigmentation. It pairs well with retinoids and acids, softening their irritation. Peptides (Matrixyl, Argireline, copper tripeptide) are marketed as «collagen boosters» or «botox in a jar», but clinical evidence is more modest – effects are gentle and need sustained use.
What doesn't work despite loud marketing: plant-based «stem cells», collagen in creams (molecule too large for dermal penetration), hyaluronic acid positioned as an anti-aging active (it only moisturises the surface).
Start an anti-aging routine with a low-strength retinoid (retinol 0.1–0.3%) and daytime SPF 30+. Everything else is layered on gradually after 3–4 months of skin adaptation.
Tretinoin
Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment.
Retinol
A vitamin A derivative converted by skin into retinoic acid. One of the best-studied topical ingredients with proven anti-aging efficacy.
Retinaldehyde
Intermediate vitamin A form between retinol and retinoic acid. More potent than retinol but gentler than tretinoin.
Adapalene
Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin).
L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage.
Glycolic Acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture.
Evigrade currently tracks 298 ingredients in the «anti-aging» category. Of those, 228 carry evidence tier A or B.
250 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. 10 should be avoided. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
276 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin)
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture
Intermediate vitamin A form between retinol and retinoic acid. More potent than retinol but gentler than tretinoin
A vitamin A derivative converted by skin into retinoic acid. One of the best-studied topical ingredients with proven anti-aging efficacy
Third-generation topical retinoid with strong antiproliferative action. Doctors prescribe it for psoriasis, acne and photoaging
Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment
Fourth-generation retinoid with selective action on RAR-gamma receptors. Galderma markets it as Aklief for facial and truncal acne
A bioidentical ceramide from the non-hydroxylated class. One of the main lipids of the stratum corneum – restores the barrier and lowers TEWL. Pregnancy-safe
Natural nucleoside acting via skin adenosine receptors. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness
Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect
Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin
A vitamin C derivative bound to a peptide. It supports an even skin tone and antioxidant defense and is more stable than pure ascorbic acid. Well tolerated
Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A peptide active. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to skin density and firmness; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
Acetylated 4-amino-acid peptide – an anti-glycation and anti-puffiness component. Used in products against eye puffiness and dark circles. Pregnancy-safe
A peptide active. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide (Argireline). The maker links it to smoothing expression lines; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic antioxidant based on a ginger compound. It quenches free radicals and supports skin defense against environmental stress. Well tolerated
Plant meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. Marketed as a "plant-based retinol alternative" – activates the same receptor pathways without retinoid irritation
Carotenoid precursor of vitamin A. Antioxidant action; gives the formula an orange-yellow tint. Pregnancy-safe at cosmetic concentrations
A biotin peptide active. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A stable vitamin C derivative. It supports antioxidant defense and even tone, gentler than pure ascorbic acid. Well tolerated
An antioxidant emollient. It softens skin and helps protect the formula from oxidation. Well tolerated
Grape water, an active in the grape-based Caudalie range. The maker links it to antioxidant protection; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A biotech ingredient (carrier vesicles). The maker links it to skin renewal and repair; independent evidence is still limited
A gallic acid derivative. An antioxidant that supports skin defense against external stress. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A recombinant peptide grown in Nicotiana benthamiana tobacco. The maker links it to skin renewal and firmness; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A soy isoflavone. It works as an antioxidant; the maker links it to skin firmness, independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A citrus flavonoid derived from hesperidin. In cosmetics it is used as a vascular-supporting ingredient in anti-redness and anti-age eye products. The manufacturer claims reduced capillary permeability and lessened dark circles and puffiness. Found in well-known eye complexes (Eyeliss, Haloxyl)
Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response
Retinoic acid ester known under the brand Granactive Retinoid. Irritates the skin less than retinol but also has a noticeably smaller clinical base
An anti-aging active (Pro-Xylane). It supports skin density and holds moisture, common in anti-wrinkle formulas. Well tolerated
Modern UVA filter approved in the EU in 2024 (Regulation 1223/2009 Annex VI). Covers long-wave UVA up to 400 nm – a range previously addressed only by Mexoryl XL. Water-soluble, photostable, stays in the stratum corneum. Used in day creams and sunscreens with claims of protection against pigmentation and photoageing
Low-molecular-weight protein hydrolysate from yeast – a source of amino acids and peptides. Supports hydration and epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
A pumpkin seedcake hydrolyzate with peptides. It smooths texture and supports skin firmness. Well tolerated
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
A plant alkaloid. The maker links it to reducing fat-deposit volume in anti-cellulite products; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A water-soluble vitamin C derivative. It supports antioxidant defense and hydration. Well tolerated
Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity
A synthetic peptide marketed for muscle-relaxing effect. The maker links it to smoothing expression lines; independent data are limited
A synthetic peptide. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A plant alkaloid antioxidant. The maker links it to evening skin tone and free-radical protection; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
An amino alcohol (DMAE). The maker links it to skin tone and firmness; independent data are limited. Well tolerated at cosmetic levels
An oil-soluble antioxidant. It protects the formula and skin from oxidation and supports an even tone. Well tolerated
A peptide active. The maker links it to firmness and skin renewal; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
Synthetic dipeptide (Val-Trp) – an ACE inhibitor, helps drainage and reduces eyelid puffiness. Often found in eye products. Pregnancy-safe
Synthetic analog of coenzyme Q10 – a potent antioxidant with high penetration. Protects against UV stress. Pregnancy-safe
Synthetic analog of ubiquinone (CoQ10) with higher stability. Works as an antioxidant and mitochondrial protector and has been studied in dermatology since the 2000s
A boswellia resin (frankincense). It helps calm skin; the maker links it to firmness, independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A synthetic peptide. Makers link it to support for skin renewal and firmness; independent evidence is still limited. Well tolerated
A plant flavonoid antioxidant. It helps soothe skin and protect it from free radicals. Well tolerated
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