Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Dihydroavenanthramide D, a synthetic analog of oat avenanthramides, not a UV filter. It is added to soothing and anti-itch products. Mechanism data come from cell studies. The only human study is an open trial of a multi-ingredient cream without a control group
Evidence by route
Topical application
The best data concern itch. In an open study of 1000 patients with chronic itch, the itch score fell by about half in 14 days. There was no control group and the cream also contained barrier-repair ingredients, so the compound's own contribution is unknown. Anti-aging effects appear only in cell studies, and there are no data on sun protection or pigmentation
- C
Anti-aging
Cell data only: lower MMP-1 and MMP-3 expression in fibroblasts after UVB (Kim 2013) and more tight-junction proteins in keratinocytes and skin models (Park 2024)
- C
Soothing
In an open study of a multi-ingredient cream, the itch score of 1000 patients fell by half in 14 days (Ribero 2026). Mechanism data come only from in vitro work (Lotts 2017)
- D
Brightening
There are no studies of this compound in pigmentation, melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and earlier pigmentation claims referred to a different ingredient, a UVA filter
- D
Protection
This is not a UV filter, and there are no data on sun protection of the skin. The only data on lower oxidative stress after UVB come from fibroblasts (Kim 2013)
- Blanchard G et al. Allergic contact dermatitis from a skin-calming cream containing hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid. Contact Dermatitis. 2023;88(1):68-70. PMID 36094658
- Badaoui A. Multiple Allergic Contact Sensitizations to UVA Sunscreen Filters Including Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (Mexoryl 400). Contact Dermatitis. 2026. PMID 42706028
- Kim JM et al. Dihydroavenanthramide D prevents UV-irradiated generation of reactive oxygen species and expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3 in human dermal fibroblasts. Exp Dermatol. 2013;22(11):759-61. PMID 24103002
- Park J et al. Dihydroavenanthramide D Enhances Skin Barrier Function through Upregulation of Epidermal Tight Junction Expression. Curr Issues Mol Biol. 2024;46(9):9255-9268. PMID 39329899
- Lotts T et al. Dihydroavenanthramide D inhibits mast cell degranulation and exhibits anti-inflammatory effects through the activation of neurokinin-1 receptor. Exp Dermatol. 2017;26(8):739-742. PMID 27892633
- Ribero S et al. Real-world effectiveness of a topical dihydroavenanthramide D formulation for chronic pruritus: A multicenter clinical study with molecular evidence of pruritogenic pathway modulation. Narra J. 2026;6(2):e3116. PMID 42724128
- Heuschkel S et al. Modulation of dihydroavenanthramide D release and skin penetration by 1,2-alkanediols. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2008;70(1):239-47. PMID 18514497
- Heuschkel S et al. Dermal and transdermal targeting of dihydroavenanthramide D using enhancer molecules and novel microemulsions. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2009;72(3):552-60. PMID 19233266
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
- DNo data, or very weak or conflicting data
Tolerability and safety
- Working concentrations
- In the only clinical study the cream contained about 1% of the compound together with barrier-repair ingredients, with no control group (Ribero 2026). The lowest effective concentration has not been determined
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Moderate
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid is dihydroavenanthramide D, a synthetic analog of the avenanthramides in oats (Blanchard 2023). It is not a UV filter and should not be confused with the UVA filter methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (Badaoui 2026). The mechanism has been studied in cells. The compound acted on the neurokinin-1 receptor and reduced mast cell degranulation and IL-6 release (Lotts 2017). One author of that study was from the raw-material maker. In UVB-irradiated fibroblasts it lowered reactive oxygen species and MMP-1 and MMP-3 expression (Kim 2013). In keratinocytes and reconstructed skin it increased tight-junction proteins, in a study by cosmetics company employees (Park 2024). It is added to soothing and anti-itch creams. In an open study, 1000 patients with chronic itch applied a cream with the compound and barrier-repair ingredients twice a day for 14 days. The mean itch score fell from 11.37 to 5.64, and in 55.4% of patients it dropped by at least half (Ribero 2026). There was no control group, so the compound's own contribution is unknown. On human skin ex vivo, 12% of the applied dose reached the living epidermis and dermis within 300 minutes, and 41% from a cream with glycols (Heuschkel 2008). One case of allergic contact dermatitis has been reported, with a positive patch test to the raw material (Blanchard 2023). There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Frequently asked questions
Is Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid for?
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?
Dihydroavenanthramide D, a synthetic analog of oat avenanthramides, not a UV filter.
What's the INCI name for Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid?
The INCI name is Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid. It may also appear as: Dihydroavenanthramide D.
What concentration of Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid is effective?
In the only clinical study the cream contained about 1% of the compound together with barrier-repair ingredients, with no control group (Ribero 2026). The lowest effective concentration has not been determined
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