Protective cosmetic ingredients

Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage.

Broad-spectrum chemical UVA filter. Covers the UVA1 range (340–400 nm) where mineral filters are weaker. Photounstable – requires stabilizers (octocrylene, Tinosorb S).

Film-forming polymer that creates a water-resistant film on the skin. Widely used in sunscreens to improve water resistance and even distribution of UV filters.

Modified silicone with amino groups. On skin and hair it anchors more firmly than regular dimethicone and provides a stronger protective effect.

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin.

Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability.

Synthetic antioxidant preservative. Protects oils and other lipid formula components from rancidity. Used in microdoses in cosmetics.

Aromatic alcohol that works as a mild preservative and solvent. Listed among the 26 EU fragrance allergens and requires separate label declaration.

Water-soluble UV filter with a medium protection spectrum. Formulators add it to clear gels and sprays, but the sensitization risk is higher than for newer filters.

Antioxidant preservative booster. Reduces formula oxidation and strengthens the activity of other antimicrobial components.

Strong base that acts as a pH adjuster in cosmetics. Added in microdoses to bring the formula acidity to the required level.

Chemical UVB filter. Often combined with avobenzone to broaden protection. Limited to 10% in the EU due to potential endocrine activity.

Silicone polymer that forms a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. Gives products a silky texture and does not penetrate the dermis.

Silicone polymer with hydroxyl groups at chain ends. Forms a breathable film and holds moisture in the stratum corneum.

Metal ion chelator that stabilizes cosmetic formulas. Binds traces of iron and copper that enter the product through water or raw materials and accelerate oxidation.

Mineral UV filter effective mainly in the UVB and short-wave UVA range. Often combined with zinc oxide for broad-spectrum protection.

Synthetic analog of ubiquinone (CoQ10) with higher stability. Works as an antioxidant and mitochondrial protector and has been studied in dermatology since the 2000s.

Highly stable UVB filter by Merck (Uvasorb HEB). Maintains protection under sunlight and pairs well with broad-spectrum UVA filters.

Dipeptide of beta-alanine and histidine, a natural antioxidant. Binds glycation end-products and protects skin proteins from oxidation.

Alkaloid from coffee beans and tea leaves. Stimulates microcirculation, constricts vessels and delivers antioxidant protection.

Patented water-soluble UVA filter by L'Oreal (Ecamsule). Blocks the short UVA range that many classic filters leave uncovered.

Patented lipophilic broad-spectrum filter by L'Oreal. Covers both UVB and UVA ranges and stays stable under sunlight.

Medium-strength UVA filter from the anthranilate group. Covers short UVA, but protective potential stays modest compared to modern molecules.

Water-soluble stable vitamin C derivative. Skin phosphatase releases active ascorbic acid. Active at pH 7 – does not require acidic pH.

Broad-spectrum UV filter, one of the oldest among chemical SPFs. Raises the most questions about endocrine safety and causes contact dermatitis more often than other filters.

Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties.

One of the most widely used chemical UVB filters. Banned in Hawaii and Palau due to coral reef harm. Potential endocrine activity is under discussion.

Medium-strength UVB filter that often stabilizes avobenzone and dissolves other filters. A staple of American and European sunscreens.

UVB and partial UVA filter that stabilizes avobenzone in SPF formulas. During prolonged storage it slowly turns into benzophenone with a limited toxicology base.

PABA derivative that moved from old sunscreens into niche cosmetics. Carries a notable allergy risk and shows phototoxicity.

Polyphenol from grape skin and berries. Antioxidant that activates sirtuins. Topical bioavailability is limited by molecular instability.

Hybrid UV filter: works as both an organic absorber and a microparticle with physical reflection. Covers UVB and UVA, remains stable under sunlight.

Photostable broad-spectrum organic UV filter by BASF. Covers UVB and UVA ranges, resists photodegradation and stabilizes other filters in the formula.

Stable ester form of vitamin E. Skin enzymes release active tocopherol. Less allergenic than pure tocopherol and more shelf-stable.

Fat-soluble antioxidant and primary lipid antioxidant of the stratum corneum. Stabilizes cell membranes and enhances photoprotection when combined with vitamin C.

Newest UV filter by BASF (Tinosorb A2B), approved in the EU since 2019. Covers the borderline UVA2/UVB range where classic filters fall short.

Coenzyme involved in mitochondrial respiration. Its skin levels decline with age. An antioxidant protecting cell membranes from lipid peroxidation.

Modern UVA filter by BASF (DHHB). Covers the long UVA range and stabilizes avobenzone, which degrades under sunlight without support.

Powerful UVB filter by BASF with the highest protection factor per unit of mass among organic filters. Delivers high SPF at low concentrations.

Silicone with phenyl groups. Improves slip, gives a shine effect on skin and hair, and distributes pigments in makeup.

Plant-derived hydroxycinnamic acid. Standalone antioxidant that enhances and stabilizes vitamins C and E in cosmetic formulas.

Source of polyphenols, the main one being EGCG (epigallocatechin-3-gallate). An antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective agent.

Contains carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid – antioxidants that also protect other unstable formula components from oxidation.

Alpine edelweiss extract with leontopodic and chlorogenic acids. Protects skin cells from UV damage in lab models, delivers antioxidant action.

Water-soluble UVB filter with a light texture. Suits fluids and sprays, gives a non-greasy finish and does not clog pores.