Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Small clinical studies show improved hydration and reduced wrinkle depth with long oral intake. For topical application the evidence base is more modest.
Astaxanthin is a red-orange xanthophyll from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, the yeast Phaffia rhodozyma, salmon, shrimp, and krill. One of the strongest natural lipophilic antioxidants: in vitro it neutralises singlet oxygen more effectively than β-carotene or vitamin E. Mechanism. Unlike β-carotene, the astaxanthin molecule has two hydroxyl and two keto groups at its ends, so it embeds into the phospholipid bilayer of membranes. It scavenges free radicals in the aqueous and lipid phase at once. In skin it suppresses matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-9) that break down collagen, and dampens inflammatory signalling. Where applied. Antioxidant serums and creams, photoaging products, oral skin supplements. Topical concentrations 0.01–0.1%; higher levels are limited by the formula's deep red colour. Brands Holika Holika, COSRX, Erborian. In Spain astaxanthin is more often sold as an oral nutricosmético (Heliocare 360 D Plus, Imedeen Time Perfection) and less often as a topical. Evidence base. Oral – Ito 2018 (n=65, 8 weeks, 6 mg/day) showed improved hydration and reduced wrinkle depth in women aged 35–60. Tominaga 2012 (n=30, 8 weeks, 6 mg/day oral + 2 mL cream at 78.9 μM) – improved texture and pigmentation. Topical monotherapy data are scarcer: penetration of the stratum corneum is limited by hydrophobicity. Safety. EFSA approved astaxanthin as a food supplement (up to 8 mg/day for adults, 2024). Topically non-comedogenic, non-irritating, hypoallergenic. At high oral doses (>20 mg/day) some patients develop a light orange skin tint – a reversible effect typical of carotenoids. Pregnancy and lactation – safe topically. Oral safety data in pregnancy are insufficient: AEMPS does not ban astaxanthin supplements but advises consulting a clinician. Realistic assessment. Strong antioxidant with decent oral evidence. Topical use runs into a delivery problem – look for liposomal or nanoemulsion formulas. Daytime antioxidant protection under SPF, photoaging, wrinkle prevention in patients 35+.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Astaxanthin is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Astaxanthin suits: oily, dry, combination, normal.
Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis.
The INCI name is Astaxanthin. It may also appear as: Астаксантин.
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