Ascorbyl Palmitate
Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. More stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and fits oil and emulsion formulas. However, hydrolysis in skin is limited and true vitamin C bioactivity is reduced. Often used as an antioxidant to stabilise oils in formulation.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Ester form of vit C, unstable – oxidizes via the ester bond. Prooxidant effects under UV described in literature. Marketing use, weak clinical data.
- Pinnell SR et al. Dermatol Surg. 2001;27(2):137-142. DOI 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x
- Austria R et al. J Pharm Biomed Anal. 1997;15(6):795-801. PMID 9172105
How to read tiers A–F
- DNo data, or very weak or conflicting data
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. One of the oldest and cheapest ways to add vitamin C to oil-based and emulsion formulas. Mechanism. The ester is more stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and does not degrade at neutral pH. On skin an esterase needs to hydrolyse the palmitate to release ascorbic acid. In practice the hydrolysis is slow and incomplete, so its activity as vitamin C is limited. It works better as a formula antioxidant: it prevents oil rancidity and free-radical reactions in the jar. Where applied. Oil-based anti-aging creams and serums, lipsticks, balms, sunscreen sticks. Concentration 0.1–1%. In Spain part of Sesderma C-Vit, Mesoestetic Ultimate W+ (as a component of an antioxidant complex), Isdin Isdinceutics. Evidence base. Human topical RCTs on whitening or anti-aging effects of ascorbyl palmitate are few and of low quality. Pinnell 2001 showed that L-ascorbic acid 10% significantly outperforms ascorbyl palmitate at the same concentration for collagen production and photoprotection. Modern "real" vitamin C serums therefore use L-ascorbic acid, MAP, or THD ascorbate rather than palmitate. Safety. CIR confirmed cosmetic safety in 2005 and 2014. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, non-irritating. In vitro, UVA exposure with ascorbyl palmitate gives a small pro-oxidant signal – no clinical relevance found, but a reason to keep it in nighttime products rather than daytime ones. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Topical systemic absorption is minimal. Realistic assessment. Useful as a stabiliser for oil formulas and a mild on-shelf antioxidant. Not the right choice when you actually want vitamin C on skin – then go with L-ascorbic 10–20%, MAP 5–10%, or THD ascorbate 3%.
Frequently asked questions
Is Ascorbyl Palmitate safe during pregnancy?
Ascorbyl Palmitate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Ascorbyl Palmitate for?
Ascorbyl Palmitate suits: normal, dry, combination, sensitive.
What is Ascorbyl Palmitate and what does it do in cosmetics?
Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid.
What's the INCI name for Ascorbyl Palmitate?
The INCI name is Ascorbyl Palmitate. It may also appear as: Vitamin C Palmitate, L-Ascorbyl Palmitate.
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