Ascorbyl Palmitate

Evidence by route

About this ingredient

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. One of the oldest and cheapest ways to add vitamin C to oil-based and emulsion formulas. Mechanism. The ester is more stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and does not degrade at neutral pH. On skin an esterase needs to hydrolyse the palmitate to release ascorbic acid. In practice the hydrolysis is slow and incomplete, so its activity as vitamin C is limited. It works better as a formula antioxidant: it prevents oil rancidity and free-radical reactions in the jar. Where applied. Oil-based anti-aging creams and serums, lipsticks, balms, sunscreen sticks. Concentration 0.1–1%. In Spain part of Sesderma C-Vit, Mesoestetic Ultimate W+ (as a component of an antioxidant complex), Isdin Isdinceutics. Evidence base. Human topical RCTs on whitening or anti-aging effects of ascorbyl palmitate are few and of low quality. Pinnell 2001 showed that L-ascorbic acid 10% significantly outperforms ascorbyl palmitate at the same concentration for collagen production and photoprotection. Modern "real" vitamin C serums therefore use L-ascorbic acid, MAP, or THD ascorbate rather than palmitate. Safety. CIR confirmed cosmetic safety in 2005 and 2014. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, non-irritating. In vitro, UVA exposure with ascorbyl palmitate gives a small pro-oxidant signal – no clinical relevance found, but a reason to keep it in nighttime products rather than daytime ones. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Topical systemic absorption is minimal. Realistic assessment. Useful as a stabiliser for oil formulas and a mild on-shelf antioxidant. Not the right choice when you actually want vitamin C on skin – then go with L-ascorbic 10–20%, MAP 5–10%, or THD ascorbate 3%.

Tolerability and safety

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