Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1
Recombinant human EGF made in Nicotiana benthamiana leaves. For this form there is one cell study and no human studies. A critical review found no proof that cosmetic sh-oligopeptide-1 is active
Evidence by route
Topical application
For EGF made in Nicotiana benthamiana there is one cell study, in which keratinocytes migrated as well as with commercial EGF. Anti-aging effects and firmness of this form have not been studied in people; human trials used EGF of unnamed origin, mostly uncontrolled. A critical review found no proof that cosmetic sh-oligopeptide-1 is biologically active
- C
Skin regeneration
In cell culture, EGF from N. benthamiana made keratinocytes migrate as well as commercial EGF did (Hanittinan 2020); this form has not been studied on human skin
- D
Anti-aging
No study has measured wrinkles, firmness or collagen with the N. benthamiana form, and a critical review found the bioactivity of cosmetic sh-oligopeptide-1 unproven (Martínez-Carpio 2023)
- D
Skin firmness
There are no data on skin firmness for this ingredient
- Hanittinan O et al. Expression optimization, purification and in vitro characterization of human epidermal growth factor produced in Nicotiana benthamiana. Biotechnol Rep (Amst). 2020;28:e00524. PMID 32953470
- Martínez-Carpio PA. Topical application of sh-oligopeptide-1 and clinical trials with cosmetic preparations: risk or fraud?. Cutan Ocul Toxicol. 2023;42(4):190-197. PMID 37452558
- Seidel R et al. Reduced appearance of under-eye bags with twice-daily application of epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum: a pilot study. J Drugs Dermatol. 2015;14(4):405-10. PMID 25844616
- McKnight B et al. Topical Human Epidermal Growth Factor in the Treatment of Senile Purpura and the Prevention of Dermatoporosis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2015;14(10):1147-50. PMID 26461827
- Ratanapokasatit Y et al. The Efficacy and Safety of Epidermal Growth Factor Combined with Fractional Carbon Dioxide Laser for Acne Scar Treatment: A Split-Face Trial. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022;15(7):44-48. PMID 35942017
- Wattanakrai P et al. Effectiveness of an epidermal growth factor-containing cream on postinflammatory hyperpigmentation after 1064-nm Q-switched neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet laser treatment of acquired bilateral nevus of Ota-like macules (Hori's nevus) in Asians: A split-face, double-blinded, randomized controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(5):2031-2037. PMID 35066982
- Miller-Kobisher B et al. Epidermal Growth Factor in Aesthetics and Regenerative Medicine: Systematic Review. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2021;14(2):137-146. PMID 34566354
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
- DNo data, or very weak or conflicting data
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a recombinant protein with the sequence of human epidermal growth factor (EGF). It is produced in the leaves of Nicotiana benthamiana, a relative of tobacco. In the body, EGF takes part in the division and migration of skin cells. For this plant-made form there is one laboratory study: purified EGF from N. benthamiana made HaCaT keratinocytes migrate as well as commercial human EGF did (Hanittinan 2020). No effect on skin was measured. A critical review of 12 papers concluded that the bioactivity of cosmetic sh-oligopeptide-1 has not been proven. In the author's view, clinical studies built on it lack a scientific basis (Martínez-Carpio 2023). Human studies used serums with EGF of unnamed origin. Open studies without a control group enrolled 18 people with under-eye bags (Seidel 2015) and 6 people with senile purpura (McKnight 2015). In a placebo-controlled split-face trial after CO2 laser, acne scars on the EGF side looked better at 3 months, but healing was no faster (Ratanapokasatit 2022). After a different laser, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation was no less frequent on the EGF side than with placebo (Wattanakrai 2022). None of these studies used the N. benthamiana form. Irritation and sensitization of this form have not been studied, and the long-term risks of cosmetic sh-oligopeptide-1 are unknown (Martínez-Carpio 2023). There are no data on use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Frequently asked questions
Is Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1 safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1 during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1 for?
Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1 suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1 and what does it do in cosmetics?
Recombinant human EGF made in Nicotiana benthamiana leaves.
What's the INCI name for Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1?
The INCI name is Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-1. It may also appear as: sh-Oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40sh-Oligopeptide-1.
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