Alpha Lipoic Acid
Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Small RCTs show moderate improvement in fine lines and texture. At concentrations above 5% it causes tingling and mild redness, so sensitive skin handles it poorly.
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Medium
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Oily, Combination, Normal
- Use with caution
- Sensitive
About this ingredient
Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA, thioctic acid) is a sulfur-containing fatty acid with amphiphilic properties: soluble in water and oils. Endogenously synthesized in mitochondria, participates in oxidative decarboxylation of pyruvate. Mechanism. A 'universal' antioxidant – neutralizes both water-soluble and lipid-soluble free radicals. Regenerates other antioxidants (vitamins C, E, glutathione). In vitro suppresses matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), theoretically slowing collagen degradation. Where applied. Anti-aging serums and creams (1–5%, most often 3%). Brands: Perricone MD, SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E + Phloretin, Sesderma Liposystem. In Spain – Cantabria Labs, Mesoestetic Energy C. Evidence base. Beitner 2003 (n=33, 12 weeks, 5% cream) showed 50% photometric reduction in photoaging, fine lines, and roughness vs 11% placebo. Sherif 2014 (n=20, 12 weeks, 3%) confirmed effect on skin texture and tone. Effect is modest, comparable to other antioxidants (vitamin C, E). Safety. CIR confirmed safety at cosmetic concentrations. Irritation and erythema possible in 10–20% during the first 1–2 weeks – resolves. Does not photosensitize. Non-comedogenic. Odor controversy. The molecule has a mild sulfurous odor that persists on skin after application. In commercial formulas the odor is masked with fragrance. Pregnancy and lactation – limited data. No direct pregnancy studies. Avoid as a precaution. Alternative: vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside), niacinamide, adenosine. Realistic take. An antioxidant with a plausible mechanism and moderate clinical base. A worthy add-on to a core routine but not a replacement for retinol, SPF, and vitamin C.
Frequently asked questions
Is Alpha Lipoic Acid safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for Alpha Lipoic Acid during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is Alpha Lipoic Acid for?
Alpha Lipoic Acid suits: oily, combination, normal. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Can Alpha Lipoic Acid irritate the skin?
Alpha Lipoic Acid has moderate irritation potential. Sensitive skin may show a transient reaction that usually settles with adaptation.
What is Alpha Lipoic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?
Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils.
What's the INCI name for Alpha Lipoic Acid?
The INCI name is Thioctic Acid. It may also appear as: Alpha Lipoic Acid, ALA.
See Alpha Lipoic Acid in a product composition right on the store page
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to iHerb, Sephora, Druni and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
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