INCI: Thioctic Acid
Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Small RCTs show moderate improvement in fine lines and texture. At concentrations above 5% it causes tingling and mild redness, so sensitive skin handles it poorly.
Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA, thioctic acid) is a sulfur-containing fatty acid with amphiphilic properties: soluble in water and oils. Endogenously synthesized in mitochondria, participates in oxidative decarboxylation of pyruvate. Mechanism. A 'universal' antioxidant – neutralizes both water-soluble and lipid-soluble free radicals. Regenerates other antioxidants (vitamins C, E, glutathione). In vitro suppresses matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), theoretically slowing collagen degradation. Where applied. Anti-aging serums and creams (1–5%, most often 3%). Brands: Perricone MD, SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E + Phloretin, Sesderma Liposystem. In Spain – Cantabria Labs, Mesoestetic Energy C. Evidence base. Beitner 2003 (n=33, 12 weeks, 5% cream) showed 50% photometric reduction in photoaging, fine lines, and roughness vs 11% placebo. Sherif 2014 (n=20, 12 weeks, 3%) confirmed effect on skin texture and tone. Effect is modest, comparable to other antioxidants (vitamin C, E). Safety. CIR confirmed safety at cosmetic concentrations. Irritation and erythema possible in 10–20% during the first 1–2 weeks – resolves. Does not photosensitize. Non-comedogenic. Odor controversy. The molecule has a mild sulfurous odor that persists on skin after application. In commercial formulas the odor is masked with fragrance. Pregnancy and lactation – limited data. No direct pregnancy studies. Avoid as a precaution. Alternative: vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside), niacinamide, adenosine. Realistic take. An antioxidant with a plausible mechanism and moderate clinical base. A worthy add-on to a core routine but not a replacement for retinol, SPF, and vitamin C.
Irritation potential
MediumAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
UnknownThe Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Safety data for Alpha Lipoic Acid during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
Alpha Lipoic Acid suits: oily, combination, normal. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Alpha Lipoic Acid has moderate irritation potential. Sensitive skin may show a transient reaction that usually settles with adaptation.
Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils.
The INCI name is Thioctic Acid. It may also appear as: Alpha Lipoic Acid, ALA, Альфа-липоевая кислота.
Published: · updated:
Suitable for
Use with caution