Hydrolyzed Centella Asiatica Extract

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Low

Pregnancy

Safe

Suitable for

Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive

About this ingredient

Hydrolyzed Centella Asiatica Extract is a Centella asiatica leaf extract treated by enzymatic cleavage of high-molecular-weight plant polymers into smaller fragments. This improves triterpene and peptide penetration into the stratum corneum and raises bioavailability compared with the standard extract. Where it is used. Serums and ampoules for mature skin, barrier-repair products, post-procedure care, K-beauty essences, emulsions for atopy and reactive skin. Concentrations 1-5%. In Spain it has less presence than the standard extract – mostly in Asian-inspired lines and premium Cica products. Composition. After hydrolysis the extract contains: fragmented triterpenes (asiaticoside, madecassoside in smaller but more bioavailable forms), low-molecular-weight peptides and amino acids, phenolic acids, and flavonoids. Molecules below 500 Da can physically cross intact stratum corneum, which is the theoretical advantage over the non-cleaved extract. Mechanism. Same targets as the standard centella extract: TGF-beta-driven collagen synthesis, re-epithelialization, anti-inflammatory effect through suppression of MMP-2/9 and pro-inflammatory cytokines, and antioxidant activity. Hypothetically it acts faster and deeper because of higher bioavailability, but clinical evidence of this superiority is scarce. Evidence base. No isolated RCTs of hydrolyzed centella extract exist. Evidence base B by transfer from triterpene data (Lee 2012, Bonté 1995 RCTs, Wijaya 2022 meta-analysis for pediatric atopy). The advantage of the hydrolyzed form remains formulation-theoretical – no head-to-head trials against the standard extract. Safety. Pregnancy and breastfeeding – topical use is safe. Patients with Apiaceae allergy – forearm patch test. Irritation is rare. Practical notes. A reasonable choice for patients who did not respond to the standard centella extract or whose marked hyperkeratosis hinders active penetration. In INCI it usually sits at position 4-8. Compatible with every active. Do not expect dramatic differences from the standard extract – clinical separation is not proven.

Frequently asked questions