Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Retinoic acid ester used in anti-aging skin care. On its own it has been studied only in mice and cells; clinical studies tested it only in combination with other actives
Evidence by route
Topical application
No clinical study has tested HPR as the only active ingredient. Data on its anti-aging effect come only from mice and cells (Wu 2026). In a comparison of five retinoids, it was weaker than retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate (Shu 2024). There are no data on pigmentation for HPR alone
- C
Anti-aging
In UVB-exposed mice, HPR reduced epidermal thickening and restored collagen (Wu 2026). In cells it was weaker than retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate (Shu 2024), and it has not been tested alone in people
- D
Brightening
Pigmentation data exist only for multi-ingredient products in which the contribution of HPR cannot be separated
- Wu H et al. Multi-Omics Reveals That Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Alleviates UV-Induced Skin Aging via the p38/MMP9/Collagen Axis. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2026;19:620755. PMID 42639574
- Shu P et al. Comparison of five retinoids for anti-photoaging therapy: Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities in vitro and therapeutic efficacy in vivo. Photochem Photobiol. 2024;100(3):633-645. PMID 37990342
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
- DNo data, or very weak or conflicting data
Tolerability and safety
- Working concentrations
- In people, HPR has not been tested on its own at any concentration. A study in UVB-exposed mice applied 0.025%, 0.5% and 1%, and the effect increased with dose (Wu 2026)
- Irritation potential
- Medium
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Avoid
- Suitable for
- Oily, Dry, Combination, Normal
- Use with caution
- Sensitive
Combinations with other ingredients
Works well with
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Granactive Retinoid (HPR) activates at neutral pH, so stable C forms pair well. With ethyl ascorbate, no irritation and no loss of activity for either molecule.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
HPR and THD ascorbate are both lipophilic and pH-neutral. Often formulated together in anhydrous anti-aging serums – convenient for retinoid adaptation.
About this ingredient
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is an ester of retinoic acid. Raw-material suppliers state that it binds retinoid receptors directly, without conversion in the skin. Peer-reviewed studies have not shown this, and one recent paper calls HPR a retinoic acid precursor (Wu 2026). Data on HPR alone come from animals and cells. In mice with UVB-induced photoaging, HPR at 0.025%, 0.5% and 1% reduced epidermal thickening and mast cell infiltration and restored collagen, with a dose-dependent effect (Wu 2026). In a comparison of five retinoids, HPR acted against photoaging markers in cells. Retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate were stronger, and they also did best in UVB-exposed mice (Shu 2024). Clinical studies tested only products in which HPR was combined with retinyl propionate, retinol, peptides, vitamin C or silybin. Most came from developer companies and had no vehicle control, so the share of HPR in the result is unknown. No trial compares its efficacy with retinol or tretinoin, and its irritation potential on its own has not been studied in people. Sunscreen is advised as with any retinoid, though photosensitivity to HPR has not been tested. In mice, topical HPR caused no significant apoptosis in internal organs (Shu 2024). There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding; retinoids as a class are avoided at these times as a precaution, and HPR is no exception.
Frequently asked questions
Is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate safe during pregnancy?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is not recommended during pregnancy. Consider an alternative from the same category.
What skin types is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate for?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate suits: oily, dry, combination, normal. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Can Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate irritate the skin?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate has moderate irritation potential. Sensitive skin may show a transient reaction that usually settles with adaptation.
What is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and what does it do in cosmetics?
Retinoic acid ester used in anti-aging skin care.
What's the INCI name for Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate?
The INCI name is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. It may also appear as: HPR, Granactive Retinoid.
What concentration of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is effective?
In people, HPR has not been tested on its own at any concentration. A study in UVB-exposed mice applied 0.025%, 0.5% and 1%, and the effect increased with dose (Wu 2026)
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