Weak retinoid form: a retinol ester with acetic acid. Low bioavailability on skin, a weaker effect than retinol and retinal.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
To turn into retinoic acid, the molecule goes through two enzymatic steps and a large share is lost in the skin. Clinical RCTs with a convincing anti-aging effect are few.
Retinyl acetate (Vitamin A acetate) is an ester of retinol with acetic acid. A weak retinoid form: to produce an effect on skin it must undergo two-step conversion – first the acetate group is cleaved to form retinol, then retinol is oxidized to retinal and on to retinoic acid. Concentration drops at each step. Where applied. Mid-range anti-aging creams (0.1-1%), mature-skin products, night serums. Often marketed as a 'mild retinol' for beginners, in reality efficacy is substantially lower than retinol, and far below tretinoin. In Spain seen in Babé, RoC, parts of ISDIN and Sesderma lines. Evidence base. Few direct RCTs of retinyl acetate for photoaging. By analogy with retinyl palmitate, efficacy is graded weak (Sorg 2014). For a patient with a clear anti-aging goal, retinol 0.3-1%, retinaldehyde, or prescription tretinoin works better. Safety. CIR confirmed safety at cosmetic concentrations. Irritation is weaker than with retinol; flaking and dryness occur at higher concentrations, especially on dry and sensitive skin. Systemic vitamin A controversy. High oral doses of vitamin A as retinyl acetate (>10,000 IU daily long-term) are teratogenic. Topical cosmetic use delivers doses orders of magnitude lower than systemic. Even so, regulators (SCCS Opinion 2016) recommend capping total cosmetic retinoid dose (including retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinol) at 0.3% in face products. Pregnancy – avoid. By EMA and FDA consensus, no retinoids (including topical esters) during pregnancy. For anti-aging in pregnancy: bakuchiol, azelaic acid, vitamin C, peptides.
Irritation potential
MediumAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
AvoidSuitable for
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Retinyl Acetate is not recommended during pregnancy. Consider an alternative from the same category.
Retinyl Acetate suits: oily, dry, combination, normal. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Retinyl Acetate has moderate irritation potential. Sensitive skin may show a transient reaction that usually settles with adaptation.
Weak retinoid form: a retinol ester with acetic acid.
The INCI name is Retinyl Acetate. It may also appear as: Vitamin A Acetate, Ретинилацетат, Ретинил ацетат.
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Use with caution