Tripeptide-1

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Low

Pregnancy

Caution

Suitable for

Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Sensitive

About this ingredient

Tripeptide-1 (GHK, glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) is a natural tripeptide discovered by Loren Pickart in human plasma in 1973. With age, skin GHK levels drop by 60% by age 60. Without copper (GHK-Cu, the copper peptide, has a different profile). In cosmetics – the milder version for sensitive skin. Mechanism. In cell models it stimulates type I and III collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycan synthesis, and angiogenesis. In wound healing it is comparable to growth factors (EGF, TGF-β). Activates SIRT1 and FOXO3 – cellular longevity genes. Without copper, it works more weakly than GHK-Cu but does not tint the formula blue. Where applied. Anti-ageing serums and creams, post-procedure products, barrier-recovery formulations. In Spain – in Sesderma, Skeyndor, Mesoestetic lines. Use levels in finished formulas: 0.01-0.1%. Evidence base. The Pickart 2018 review covers 30+ in vitro and in vivo studies with GHK on skin and wound healing. Direct RCT comparisons with retinol or vitamin C are missing. Clinically – elasticity improvement and 15-25% wrinkle-depth reduction over 12 weeks of 2% GHK-Cu (Leyden 2002). Data for the copper-free form are weaker. Safety. Non-sensitising, non-comedogenic. The molecule is large (340 Da); penetration is limited to the epidermis. Pregnancy – use with caution. Despite low systemic absorption, GHK activates angiogenesis and cell proliferation – a theoretical risk in hormone-dependent lesions. AAD recommends peptides with a stronger safety database or niacinamide. Lactation – no data. Suited for. Mature skin, post-procedure recovery (after laser, peels), patients who do not tolerate retinoids.

Frequently asked questions