Gluconolactone (PHA)

Tolerability and safety

Working concentrations

4–15%

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Low

Pregnancy

Caution

Suitable for

Sensitive, Dry, Normal, Combination

About this ingredient

Gluconolactone (PHA, polyhydroxy acid) is a polyhydroxy acid, the cyclic ester of gluconic acid. Third generation of fruit acids after AHA (glycolic, lactic) and BHA (salicylic). The molecule is larger than AHAs – penetrates the epidermis more slowly and does not reach deep layers. Where applied. Exfoliators for sensitive skin (4-15%), serums, creams, toners. Brands include NeoStrata, Exuviance, Dermaceutic, Spanish Sesderma PHA. Often combined with lactobionic acid (a second PHA) – synergy in softening and exfoliation. Advantages over AHA. Less irritation – suitable for rosacea, couperose, eczema, post-procedure skin. Does not photosensitize, unlike glycolic and lactic acids (Edison 2004). Additionally hydrates – humectant effect. Antioxidant effect – chelates iron, slows oxidative stress. Evidence base. Studies (Edison 2004, Green 2009) in 200 patients with photoaging showed improvements in texture, tone, and pigmentation over 12 weeks of 10% gluconolactone. Effect comparable to 8% glycolic acid but without irritation. In post-acne mark patients, effective for redness and post-acne pigmentation. Safety. CIR/SCCS confirm safety at concentrations up to 15% in leave-on and up to 30% in peels. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic. Irritation is rare and mild. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Unlike salicylic and glycolic acids, can be used without restrictions. One of the few first-line exfoliants in pregnancy (alongside azelaic acid and azelaic acid + LHA). Particularly suitable for. Rosacea, couperose, sensitive skin, post-procedure recovery, photoaging in patients intolerant to AHA, gestational hyperpigmentation, perioral dermatitis.

Frequently asked questions