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Hyaluronic Acid

Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration.

Evidence by route

A

Topical application

Surface humectant effect is well established. Data on dermal penetration and long-term wrinkle reduction remain conflicting: large HA molecules (>50 kDa) do not penetrate the stratum corneum. Low-molecular-weight fractions (<50 kDa) penetrate better but may cause irritation at high concentrations.

  • Papakonstantinou E et al. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-258. PMID 23467280
A

Injectable

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid dermal fillers are the gold standard for contouring and biorevitalization. Multicenter clinical trials confirm efficacy and safety for wrinkle correction, volume restoration, and skin texture improvement.

  • Beasley KL et al. Facial Plast Surg. 2009;25(2):86-94. PMID 19415575
  • Sundaram H et al. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2015;136(5 Suppl):139S-148S. PMID 26441095
How to read tiers A–F
  • AProven efficacy. Two or more independent RCTs with instrumental endpoints

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Safe
Suitable for
Oily, Combination, Sensitive, Normal, Dry

Combinations with other ingredients

Works well with

Ceramides

Hyaluronic acid pulls water, ceramides hold it in the barrier. A baseline moisturizing combination.

Niacinamide

Safe pair for most routines. Niacinamide strengthens the barrier, hyaluronic acid retains water in the stratum corneum.

About this ingredient

Hyaluronic Acid (INCI Sodium Hyaluronate – sodium salt) is a glycosaminoglycan, a natural component of the dermis, synovial fluid, and vitreous body. In skin, 1 g of hyaluronic acid retains up to 1000 g of water. Dermal content drops by 50% by age 50. Molecular forms. High molecular weight (HMW, >1000 kDa) – forms a film on the skin surface, does not penetrate, hydrates upper layers. Low molecular weight (LMW, 50-300 kDa) – penetrates the epidermis, stimulates collagen synthesis. Ultra-low molecular weight (ULMW, 5-50 kDa) – penetrates deeper but may trigger pro-inflammatory effects on dry skin. Quality products use multi-MW blends. Where applied. Serums and creams (0.1-2%), masks, injectable fillers (non-crosslinked for bio-revitalization, crosslinked for fillers – Juvederm, Restylane), ophthalmics (Healon), intra-articular injections for osteoarthritis (Synvisc). Evidence base. Studies (Pavicic 2011, Bukhari 2018) showed 30-40% moisturization gains over 8 weeks at 0.5-1%. Multi-MW formulas outperform single-MW. HA does not replace cream – it works as a moisture trap; an occlusive (lipids, ceramides, dimethicone) must go on top. Safety. CIR confirmed safety. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, non-irritating. Topical systemic absorption is minimal. Topical allergic reactions are extremely rare (more common with injectables due to stabilizers). Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Acceptable at any stage topically. Injectable fillers in pregnancy by Spanish SEME 2022 consensus are not done (theoretical inflammatory risk); non-crosslinked bio-revitalization – individualized decision. Dry-skin hack. Apply to damp skin (after cleansing, toner, or thermal water) – HA pulls moisture from the nearest source. On dry skin in dry air it may work in reverse, drawing water from the dermis.

Frequently asked questions

Is Hyaluronic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Hyaluronic Acid is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.

What skin types is Hyaluronic Acid for?

Hyaluronic Acid suits: oily, combination, sensitive, normal, dry.

What is Hyaluronic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?

Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight.

What's the INCI name for Hyaluronic Acid?

The INCI name is Hyaluronic Acid. It may also appear as: Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer.

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