INCI: Ceramide NP / Ceramide AP / Ceramide EOP
Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum. Ceramide deficiency is a key factor in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and xerosis.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
RCTs in atopic dermatitis show reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), decreased SCORAD index, and reduced flare frequency. Comparative studies against plain emollients favor ceramide-containing formulations.
Ceramides are a class of sphingolipids that make up about 50% of the stratum corneum lipid matrix. Structurally: a sphingoid base + fatty acid joined by an amide bond. Humans have 12 described ceramide classes (Ceramide 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, etc.) with varying fatty-acid length and saturation. Where applied. Repair creams and serums (0.1-5%), atopic dermatitis and xerosis products, post-procedure formulations. Brands include CeraVe, Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin, La Roche-Posay Lipikar, Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore. In Spain – CeraVe Hidratante, Eucerin AtopiControl, ISDIN Nutratopic. Deficiency in disease. In atopic dermatitis, stratum corneum ceramides are reduced by 30-50% (Imokawa 1991, Janssens 2012). Similar disruption occurs in psoriasis, ichthyosis, xerosis. Topical replenishment restores barrier function. Evidence base. AAD 2024 and Spanish AEDV 2023 recommend ceramide-containing emollients as first-line for atopic dermatitis in adults and children. Studies (Lynde 2014, Spada 2018) showed SCORAD reduction by 30-40% over 4-6 weeks, comparable to class I-II topical steroids. A ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid ratio of 3:1:1 produces the strongest barrier effect. Safety. CIR/SCCS confirm safety across use concentrations. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic. Systemic absorption is minimal. Suitable for any age, including newborns. Brand controversy. Synthetic ceramides (ceramide AP, NP, NS, EOP) are identical to natural ones in structure and work. Plant-derived "phytoceramides" (from wheat, rice) for topical use are marketing – bioavailability is not proven. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Acceptable at any stage on any area including breast and abdomen. First-line agent for gestational xerosis and pregnancy atopy. What to combine with. Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, cholesterol, free fatty acids, squalane, panthenol. Do not combine with harsh surfactants or alcohol-based toners – they strip the restored barrier.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeCategory
Barrier repair
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Moisturizing
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Category
Post-retinoid recovery
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Compromised barrier rebuild
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Category
Post-procedure recovery
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Ceramides is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Ceramides suits: dry, sensitive, normal, combination.
Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum.
The INCI name is Ceramide NP / Ceramide AP / Ceramide EOP. It may also appear as: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP.
Published: · updated:
Suitable for
RetinolРетинол
Ceramides restore the barrier that retinol weakens during adaptation. A must-pair for sensitive skin.