Asiatic Acid
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Centella acid with anti-inflammatory and remodeling activity.
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Asiatic Acid is a pentacyclic triterpene acid from Centella asiatica leaves (gotu kola, tiger grass). One of the four key centella triterpenes alongside asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and madecassoside. Mechanism. In vitro suppresses NF-κB and MAPK signalling, lowering production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6, IL-1β). Activates TGF-β and Smad signalling in fibroblasts, which drives type I collagen and fibronectin synthesis. In vitro anti-inflammatory activity is stronger than that of asiaticoside because the free acid group penetrates cells faster than the glycoside. Where applied. Korean repair lines (Dr.Jart+ Cicapair, SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective, Purito Centella), European dermocosmetics after procedures. Concentration 0.1–0.5%, usually in a complex with other centella derivatives. In Spain part of Sesderma Repaskin Cica, La Roche-Posay Cicaplast (in the madecassoside complex). Evidence base. Few topical RCTs on asiatic acid as monotherapy; usually studied as part of a centella complex (TECA, Madecassol). Damkerngsuntorn 2020 (n=30, after fractional laser) showed faster barrier recovery and lower erythema with 0.2% asiatic acid in the formula. In animal wound-healing studies (Wu 2017) – faster than placebo. Safety. CIR confirmed safety of centella triterpenes in 2015. Irritation is rare; allergic contact dermatitis cases are sporadic and usually triggered by essential oils within the centella extract rather than by the acid itself. Pregnancy and lactation – safe topically. Topical systemic absorption is minimal. Oral centella derivatives in pregnancy are contraindicated (no safety data), but topical use at cosmetic concentrations does not carry the same risk. Particularly suitable for. Rosacea, post-procedure recovery, sensitive and reactive skin, early photoaging. Often works synergistically with centella extract, madecassic acid, panthenol, and allantoin.
Frequently asked questions
Is Asiatic Acid safe during pregnancy?
Asiatic Acid is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Asiatic Acid for?
Asiatic Acid suits: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.
What is Asiatic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?
Centella triterpene acid.
What's the INCI name for Asiatic Acid?
The INCI name is Asiatic Acid.
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Barrier repair, Soothing, Compromised barrier rebuild, Post-procedure recovery
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