Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Anti-inflammatory properties confirmed in vitro and in small clinical studies. Accelerates healing and reduces erythema. No large RCTs, but the safety profile is well studied – decades of use.
Bisabolol (α-Bisabolol) is a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol. Naturally derived from chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) essential oil, up to 50%, and from Brazilian candeia wood (Vanillosmopsis erythropappa). Modern synthetic bisabolol is identical to the natural one and more consistent in composition. Mechanism. Anti-inflammatory action via suppression of prostaglandin E2 synthesis and reduced IL-1β and TNF-α production in vitro. Additionally eases penetration of other actives through the stratum corneum – works as a mild penetration enhancer (e.g. for panthenol and allantoin in the same formula). Antimicrobial action against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus is documented in bacterial-culture studies. Where applied. Post-procedure creams and serums, rosacea and couperose products, baby cosmetics, after-sun products. Concentration 0.1–1%. In Spain – Avène Tolérance Extrême, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive, ISDIN Nutratopic Pro-AMP, Mustela Stelatopia. Evidence base. Few direct clinical RCTs on topical bisabolol monotherapy. Most data come from formulation studies where it sits in a soothing complex (with centella, allantoin, panthenol). Maquart 2008 showed in vitro anti-inflammatory properties. In clinical practice dermatologists widely use bisabolol as an adjuvant in sensitive skin and rosacea. Safety. CIR confirmed safety in 2017. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, non-irritating. Contact allergy is rare, <0.5% in patch tests. In some patients with chamomile (Asteraceae) allergy isolated cross-reactions are described – more often to pure chamomile extract than to synthetic bisabolol. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. One of the few first-line soothing actives for reactive skin in pregnancy, alongside panthenol, niacinamide, and allantoin. Particularly suitable for. Sensitive and reactive skin, rosacea, couperose, post-procedure recovery, after retinoids and acids, after sun, baby skin. Combines well with centella, panthenol, allantoin, niacinamide, and ceramides.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
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Bisabolol is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Bisabolol suits: sensitive, dry, normal, combination.
Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue.
The INCI name is Bisabolol. It may also appear as: Alpha-Bisabolol, Levomenol, Бисаболол.
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