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Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Triterpenoid from licorice root. Two small controlled studies found less erythema in rosacea and after laser. The atopic dermatitis RCTs tested a multi-ingredient cream

Evidence by route

B

Topical application

Direct data on glycyrrhetinic acid come from two small, short controlled studies (24 and 10 people). They found less erythema in rosacea and after laser treatment. Large atopic dermatitis RCTs tested a multi-ingredient cream, so its own contribution is unknown. There are no long-term studies. Cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been described

  • Cameli N et al. Clinical and noninvasive instrumental evaluation of the efficacy of a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory 8-beta glycyrrhetinic acid cream for the treatment of erythema in rosacea. Dermatol Ther. 2020;33(6):e14224. PMID 32833275
  • Choi SY et al. The efficacy of enoxolone in reducing erythema and pain after laser treatment: A randomized split-face pilot study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024;23(8):2657-2662. PMID 38622995
  • Abramovits W et al. A multicenter, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical study to examine the efficacy and safety of MAS063DP (Atopiclair) in the management of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in adults. J Drugs Dermatol. 2006;5(3):236-44. PMID 16573256
  • Boguniewicz M et al. MAS063DP is effective monotherapy for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in infants and children: a multicenter, randomized, vehicle-controlled study. J Pediatr. 2008;152(6):854-9. PMID 18492531
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26 Suppl 2:79-112. PMID 17613133
  • Teelucksingh S et al. Potentiation of hydrocortisone activity in skin by glycyrrhetinic acid. Lancet. 1990;335(8697):1060-3. PMID 1970371
  • Sánchez-García V et al. Allergic contact dermatitis from glycyrrhetinic acid contained in a cream for palpebral eczema. Contact Dermatitis. 2023;88(4):320-321. PMID 36573308
How to read tiers A–F
  • BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations

Tolerability and safety

Working concentrations
In cosmetics it is used at up to 2%. Up to 6% did not irritate or sensitize in clinical tests (CIR 2007). The only controlled study with a stated dose used a formula with 2% enoxolone mixed with a moisturizer (Choi 2024)
Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Unknown
Suitable for
Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Sensitive

About this ingredient

Glycyrrhetinic acid (18β-glycyrrhetinic acid, enoxolone) is a triterpenoid formed by hydrolysis of glycyrrhizin, the main saponin of licorice root. Human skin contains 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase, which inactivates cortisol. Glycyrrhetinic acid inhibited this enzyme in vitro and potentiated hydrocortisone in a skin vasoconstrictor test (Teelucksingh 1990). It is used in soothing and repair products at up to 2% (CIR 2007). Direct data on the acid itself come from two small, short studies. In rosacea, 12 patients used a cream with it and 12 used the same base. Erythema fell significantly by day 10 in the active group (Cameli 2020, randomization not stated). In a randomized split-face study of 10 people after fractional laser, the side with 2% enoxolone had a lower erythema index at 24 hours (Choi 2024). One of the grants for this study came from a dermocosmetics company. Large vehicle-controlled RCTs in atopic dermatitis (218 adults, 142 children) tested a multi-ingredient cream (Abramovits 2006, Boguniewicz 2008). The share of glycyrrhetinic acid in the effect is therefore unknown. There are no long-term studies. The CIR panel found it safe at current use concentrations. Up to 6% did not irritate or sensitize in clinical tests (CIR 2007). Cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been described, including one from an eyelid cream (Sánchez-García 2023). There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Frequently asked questions

Is Glycyrrhetinic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Safety data for Glycyrrhetinic Acid during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.

What skin types is Glycyrrhetinic Acid for?

Glycyrrhetinic Acid suits: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.

What is Glycyrrhetinic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?

Triterpenoid from licorice root.

What's the INCI name for Glycyrrhetinic Acid?

The INCI name is Glycyrrhetinic Acid. It may also appear as: 18-beta-Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Enoxolone.

What concentration of Glycyrrhetinic Acid is effective?

In cosmetics it is used at up to 2%. Up to 6% did not irritate or sensitize in clinical tests (CIR 2007). The only controlled study with a stated dose used a formula with 2% enoxolone mixed with a moisturizer (Choi 2024)

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