INCI: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Isoflavonoid from licorice root. Inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses inflammation. Main active in depigmenting products based on licorice extract.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Clinical data are limited to small studies. Tyrosinase inhibition in vitro is significant. In melasma, moderate improvement has been shown, comparable to 4% hydroquinone in one small RCT.
Glabridin is the main isoflavonoid of licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). In standard commercial root extracts content is 0.5-30% depending on standardization. Mechanism. Inhibits tyrosinase in vitro 16-fold more strongly than hydroquinone at equal concentrations (Yokota 1998). Suppresses superoxide-induced inflammation and MAP kinases. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect. Where applied. Depigmenting serums and creams, melasma and post-acne pigmentation products, brightening complexes (0.1-0.5% pure glabridin or 0.5-2% standardized extract). In Spain in Mesoestetic Cosmelan, Sesderma Azelac. Evidence base. Yokota 1998 (Pigment Cell Res) showed in vitro and in vivo in guinea pigs strong suppression of UV-induced pigmentation with 0.5% glabridin. Pereira 2017 in 30 melasma patients over 12 weeks using 0.5% glabridin + niacinamide + azelaic acid reduced MASI score by 32%. Few head-to-head RCTs with hydroquinone. Safety. CIR confirmed safety of licorice extract and its components. Non-comedogenic. Irritation is rare. Pregnancy – use with caution. Oral licorice is contraindicated in pregnancy (raises cortisol, may cause preeclampsia – Strandberg 2002). Topically at cosmetic concentrations systemic absorption is low; no direct contraindications, but avoid as a precaution in sensitive skin and the first trimester. Alternatives: niacinamide, azelaic acid, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
CautionSuitable for
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Glabridin (Licorice Root Extract) should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Glabridin (Licorice Root Extract) suits: sensitive, dry, normal, combination, oily.
Isoflavonoid from licorice root.
The INCI name is Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract. It may also appear as: Glabridin.
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