INCI: Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Extract containing glycyrrhizin, glabridin, and licochalcone A. An anti-inflammatory and brightening ingredient. Glabridin is considered separately as a pure compound.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Anti-inflammatory properties of licochalcone A confirmed in small clinical studies for atopic dermatitis and rosacea. Brightening effect is less pronounced than isolated glabridin. Extract standardization is difficult.
Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract) is derived from the root of bare and Uralic licorice. Contains glycyrrhizin, glabridin, liquiritin, licochalcone A and about 20 minor flavonoids. Used in traditional Eastern and Western phytotherapy for over 2000 years. Mechanism. Glabridin is a tyrosinase inhibitor in vitro at 0.1–0.5 μM (Yokota 1998), suppresses melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Glycyrrhizin and licochalcone A reduce inflammation via NF-κB. The complex works as a mild brightener and anti-inflammatory ingredient. Where applied. Brightening serums (extract 1–5%), post-acne pigmentation and melasma products, soothing rosacea creams. In Spain Sesderma Azelac, Mesoestetic Cosmelan (as component), Endocare Despigmentante are popular. Evidence base. An RCT in 23 melasma patients (Amer 2000) showed 70% pigmentation improvement over 4 weeks with 20% licorice extract. Effect comparable to 2% hydroquinone but without side effects. AAD 2024 dermatology guidelines mention as an alternative to hydroquinone in pregnancy melasma. Safety. CIR confirmed safety. Allergy is rare. Topical systemic absorption is minimal. Oral use controversy. Orally high doses of glycyrrhizin cause pseudoaldosteronism (hypertension, edema, hypokalemia). Topically systemic effect is absent, but with massive application areas (body, baths) theoretically possible. Pregnancy and lactation – topically safe. Often recommended as first-line in gestational melasma along with azelaic acid and SPF. Orally contraindicated in pregnancy.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
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Licorice Root Extract is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Licorice Root Extract suits: sensitive, normal, dry, combination, oily.
Extract containing glycyrrhizin, glabridin, and licochalcone A.
The INCI name is Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract. It may also appear as: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Licorice Extract.
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