Malic Acid
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples and other fruits. Molecularly larger than glycolic acid, it penetrates more gently. Used in formulations as a mild exfoliant and pH adjuster. Popular in 'fruit acid' peels. Rarely used as a sole active, more often combined with glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Clinical studies of malic acid alone are limited. Most AHA peel data concern glycolic and lactic acids. Within combination acid serums and peels, malic acid contributes to the overall exfoliation effect.
- Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010;3:135-142.. PMID 21437068
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Medium
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Caution
- Suitable for
- Normal, Combination, Oily
- Use with caution
- Sensitive, Dry
About this ingredient
Malic acid is a dicarboxylic alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and a natural metabolite of the Krebs cycle. In cosmetics it is produced synthetically or by extraction from apples, grapes, and rhubarb. Used in exfoliants and brightening formulations at 1–10% for dullness, hyperpigmentation, post-acne marks, keratosis pilaris, and uneven texture. Compared with glycolic acid, malic acid has a larger molecule (134 g/mol vs 76 g/mol) – it penetrates more slowly and gently, causes less irritation, and is suitable for sensitive skin. Often combined with other AHAs (glycolic, lactic) and BHA (salicylic) in complex peels. Effects: loosening of corneodesmosomes in the upper stratum corneum, accelerated cell turnover, brightening through dispersion of melanin in upper epidermal layers, and stimulation of collagen synthesis with long-term use above 5%. Optimal activity at pH 3.0–4.0. After application skin photosensitivity increases – SPF 50 in the morning is mandatory for 4 weeks after the course. Contraindicated in active rosacea, perioral dermatitis, eczema, open wounds, and within 1–2 weeks after aggressive procedures. Topical use is acceptable in pregnancy and breastfeeding, but concentration is best limited to 5%.
Frequently asked questions
Is Malic Acid safe during pregnancy?
Malic Acid should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
What skin types is Malic Acid for?
Malic Acid suits: normal, combination, oily. Use with caution in: sensitive, dry.
Can Malic Acid irritate the skin?
Malic Acid has moderate irritation potential. Sensitive skin may show a transient reaction that usually settles with adaptation.
What is Malic Acid and what does it do in cosmetics?
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples and other fruits.
What's the INCI name for Malic Acid?
The INCI name is Malic Acid. It may also appear as: L-Malic Acid, Hydroxysuccinic Acid.
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