INCI: Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Borage seed oil, an even richer GLA source: up to 20–25%. Similar to primrose oil but requires a smaller dose for the barrier effect.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Reduces TEWL and itch in atopic dermatitis, especially in children and omega-6-deficient patients. Contains trace pyrrolizidine alkaloids – hepatotoxic with long-term oral use, safe topically.
Borage Seed Oil is a cold-pressed fatty oil from Borago officinalis seeds. The richest available plant source of γ-linolenic acid (GLA, 20–25%). Also contains linoleic (35–40%), oleic (15–20%) acids, tocopherols. Mechanism. In skin GLA converts to dihomo-γ-linolenic acid and then to prostaglandin E1, with anti-inflammatory activity. Patients with atopic dermatitis often have impaired delta-6 desaturase, the enzyme converting linoleic to γ-linolenic acid – so direct GLA input bypasses the block. Restores stratum corneum lipids and lowers transepidermal water loss. Where applied. Creams and balms for dry and atopic skin, products after retinoids and acids, mature-skin products. Concentration 1–10%. Oral supplements for atopic dermatitis and premenstrual syndrome. In Spain part of La Roche-Posay Lipikar, Bioderma Atoderm Intensive, Avène Trixera, niche oil lines. Evidence base. Topically Foster 2010 (systematic review) and Bahmer 2008 (n=160, randomised) showed a moderate effect on atopic dermatitis symptoms. Strength comparable to evening primrose oil but with better tolerance and lower required concentrations. Orally – Henz 1999 (n=160) showed SCORAD improvement at 690 mg GLA/day. Safety. CIR confirmed cosmetic safety. Non-comedogenic up to 5%. Contact allergies are isolated. Unrefined oil contains trace pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PA); quality producers keep PA below the EFSA threshold of 7.5 µg/kg body weight per day. AEMPS requires PA content declaration on supplement labels. Pregnancy – use with caution. GLA itself is not teratogenic, but high-dose pyrrolizidine alkaloids are hepatotoxic. Topical use of refined oil at cosmetic concentrations is acceptable; oral borage-oil supplements in pregnancy are not recommended by AEMPS. Lactation – topically safe. Oral use – consult a clinician. Particularly suitable for. Atopic dermatitis, dry scaly skin, eczema, post-retinoid products. May combine with evening primrose oil and ceramides.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
CautionSuitable for
Use with caution
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to iHerb, Sephora, Druni and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Borage Seed Oil should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Borage Seed Oil suits: normal, dry, sensitive. Use with caution in: oily.
Borage seed oil, an even richer GLA source: up to 20–25%.
On the Fulton scale 2/5 – low comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Borago Officinalis Seed Oil. It may also appear as: Borage Seed Oil, Starflower Oil, Масло огуречника.
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