Evening Primrose Oil
Oil from evening primrose seeds. One of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (8–10%). Supports the barrier in atopic and dry skin, particularly in patients with omega-6 deficiency.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Topical and oral use show modest improvement in atopic dermatitis symptoms and dryness. Effect is small compared with ceramide-based emollients but statistically significant.
- Senapati S et al. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2008;74(5):447-452. PMID 19052401
- Bamford JT et al. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2013;(4):CD004416. PMID 23633319
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Caution
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Sensitive
- Use with caution
- Oily
About this ingredient
Evening Primrose Oil (EPO, Oenothera Biennis Oil) is cold-pressed from the seeds of Oenothera biennis. One of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, 8-10%) – an omega-6 fatty acid that human skin cannot synthesize itself. Mechanism. GLA converts to dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid and then to prostaglandin E1 – an anti-inflammatory mediator. Restores the lipid barrier in omega-6 deficiency in atopic dermatitis and ichthyosis patients. Where applied. Repair creams and serums for atopic and dry skin, breast-care products during pregnancy and lactation, oral supplements (use with caution). In Spain in Mádara, Weleda, ISDIN Natura. Topical evidence base. Cochrane Review 2013 (Bamford) analyzed 27 RCTs of systemic and topical EPO in atopic dermatitis – found no convincing efficacy for oral use. Topical data are sparser, but small studies (Senapati 2008) show moderate reduction in transepidermal water loss and improved barrier over 4-8 weeks of daily use. Safety. CIR confirmed safety. Comedogenicity 2/5 on the Fulton scale – may be a problem for acne-prone patients. Theoretical cross-reactivity in patients allergic to primrose seed or related plants. Pregnancy – use with caution. Systemic (oral) use in pregnant women has been linked to preterm contractions and prolonged labor (Dove 2008). Topical use at cosmetic concentrations is considered safe. Lactation – no data, but topical use on the body away from the areola carries no risk.
Frequently asked questions
Is Evening Primrose Oil safe during pregnancy?
Evening Primrose Oil should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
What skin types is Evening Primrose Oil for?
Evening Primrose Oil suits: normal, dry, sensitive. Use with caution in: oily.
What is Evening Primrose Oil and what does it do in cosmetics?
Oil from evening primrose seeds.
Is Evening Primrose Oil comedogenic?
On the Fulton scale 2/5 – low comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
What's the INCI name for Evening Primrose Oil?
The INCI name is Oenothera Biennis Oil. It may also appear as: Oenothera Biennis Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, EPO.
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