Shea Butter
Plant butter from shea tree nuts. Rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiables with anti-inflammatory properties. Intensely softens skin and restores the barrier.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Clinical studies demonstrate efficacy in xerosis, eczema, and dermatitis. The unsaponifiable fraction contains lupeol and alpha-amyrin with proven anti-inflammatory activity. Reduces TEWL better than mineral oil.
- Lodén M et al. Skin Res Technol. 2001;7(4):209-13. PMID 11737814
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Dry, Sensitive, Normal
- Use with caution
- Oily
About this ingredient
Shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Karite Butter) is a plant butter from shea tree nuts (Vitellaria paradoxa), growing in West African savannas. Cold-pressed or extracted. Solid butter texture, melts on skin at body temperature. Composition: 40-50% oleic acid (omega-9), 30-40% stearic, 5-10% linoleic, up to 10% unsaponifiable fraction – not ceramides here, but triterpenes, phytosterols, tocopherols, allantoin, trace retinol. Unique fraction. Shea unsaponifiables (5-15% vs 1-2% in most oils) are responsible for anti-inflammatory and regenerative action. Triterpene alcohols (lupeol, α- and β-amyrins) inhibit cyclooxygenase-2 and reduce prostaglandin synthesis. A rare combination for a plant oil. Where applied. Body and face creams and butters, barrier-repair products, atopic skin products, lip balms, infant products, lipsticks. In Spain – in Bioderma Atoderm, La Roche-Posay Lipikar, Mustela Stelatopia, Babé. Concentration 1-100% (as pure body butter). Evidence base. Verallo-Rowell 2008 (RCT, n=20, atopy) showed SCORAD improvement comparable to ceramide products. Hon 2015 in children with atopy – reduced TEWL and improved barrier. Israel 2015 in psoriasis – reduced scaling. Evidence quality for barrier repair – A/B (one of the most studied plant oils). Refined vs unrefined controversy. Unrefined shea – yellow color, characteristic grassy aroma, maximum active unsaponifiables. Refined – white, odorless, partially loses active triterpenes and vitamin E, but more convenient in cosmetic formulas. For best effect on atopics and damaged skin – unrefined. Safety. CIR confirmed shea butter safety (Final Report 2017). Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic (by actual data, not by internet 'comedogenic scales' – rating 0). Allergic reactions are rare even in people with nut allergy (shea is not a true nut botanically). Pregnancy and lactation – safe. A natural food butter (used in cooking in Africa), no topical restrictions at any stage, on any skin including breast and nipples during lactation.
Frequently asked questions
Is Shea Butter safe during pregnancy?
Shea Butter is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Shea Butter for?
Shea Butter suits: dry, sensitive, normal. Use with caution in: oily.
What is Shea Butter and what does it do in cosmetics?
Plant butter from shea tree nuts.
Is Shea Butter comedogenic?
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
What's the INCI name for Shea Butter?
The INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter. It may also appear as: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Karite Butter.
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