Carbomer

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Low

Pregnancy

Safe

Suitable for

Oily, Dry, Sensitive, Combination, Normal

About this ingredient

Carbomer (trade name Carbopol by Lubrizol) is a synthetic cross-linked acrylic acid polymer. The most widely used gel thickener and stabilizer in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Most modern gels, serums and emulsions cannot be made without it. Mechanism. Dry form is a free-flowing white powder, insoluble in water. When neutralized with a base (NaOH, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol) the carboxyl groups ionize, the polymer unfolds, and it binds tens of times more water, forming a clear gel. Final viscosity depends on the carbomer type (940, 980, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 30) and concentration (0.1-1%). Where applied. Face and body wash gels, serums, masks, pharmaceutical gels (diclofenac, ketoprofen, lidocaine), ophthalmics (Systane, Vidisic – artificial tears with increased viscosity), dental gels. In Spain – most pharmacy gels and serums (La Roche-Posay, Vichy, SVR, ISDIN). Evidence base. Carbomer is a functional texture component with no standalone skin action. The 2002 CIR report and 2018 update confirmed safety of all carbomer types up to 50% use. Safety. CIR – safe. Hypoallergenic, non-sensitizing, non-comedogenic. Compatible with any skin including sensitive, atopic, and infant skin. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Topical systemic absorption is nil (macromolecule). Acceptable at any stage on any skin. Controversy. Sometimes blamed for "pilling" (rolling up into balls on skin) when combined with silicones or some minerals. This is a formulation issue, not a property of carbomer itself – fixed by switching to xanthan gum or hydroxypropyl methylcellulose. Otherwise – a neutral background component. Worth knowing. Carbomer is pH-sensitive – outside pH 5-9 it loses viscosity. Vitamin C formulas (pH 3-3.5) or AHA/BHA (pH 3-4) cannot use carbomer – brands switch to xanthan gum or acrylate copolymers.

Frequently asked questions