INCI: Essential Oils
Volatile aromatic compounds from plants. Contain terpenes, phenols, and aldehydes – many of which are sensitizers. Marketing presents them as a 'natural' alternative to synthetic fragrances, though allergenicity is comparable.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Sensitizing potential of limonene, linalool, citronellol, and other terpenes is well documented by patch testing. Therapeutic skin benefit from topical application is not supported by large studies. Primary function is fragrance.
Essential oils are volatile aromatic mixtures extracted from plants (flowers, leaves, roots, peel) by steam distillation or cold-pressing. They contain terpenes, sesquiterpenes, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, esters. Marketing positions them as a "natural" alternative to synthetic fragrance. Allergenicity. ESCD and SCCS 2024 classify essential oils among the most frequent contact allergens in cosmetics. Lavender, tea tree, citrus, clove, ylang-ylang, peppermint contain geraniol, limonene, linalool, citral, eugenol – substances on the EU list of 26 mandatory-labeled fragrance allergens. Oxidized limonene and linalool (after a few months of storage) are among the most common causes of allergic contact dermatitis in young European women. Where applied. Natural cosmetics, aromatherapy balms, hair products, soaps, bath bombs. In "clean" and eco cosmetics – instead of synthetic fragrance. Evidence base on skin. Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) for acne – RCT Bassett 1990 showed 5% oil comparable to 5% benzoyl peroxide but with more contact dermatitis. Lavender for burns and insomnia – low-quality studies. Rosemary for alopecia – Panahi 2015 in 100 patients showed effect comparable to 2% minoxidil, with high acceptable error. Safety. Citrus oils (bergamot, grapefruit, lime) contain furanocoumarins – cause phototoxic dermatitis on sun contact ("berloque dermatitis"). Clove and cinnamon are strong sensitizers. Tea tree – risk of gynecomastia in boys (Henley 2007). Pregnancy – use with caution. Sage, thyme, hyssop, juniper, basil, cinnamon, clove are contraindicated (risk of uterine contractions and hepatotoxicity). Acceptable at cosmetic concentrations: lavender, chamomile, neroli. Spanish AEDV 2023 recommends avoidance in the first trimester and on sensitive skin. Alternatives. Hypoallergenic fragrance without the 26-EU allergen list, fragrance-free formulas for patients with eczema and rosacea.
Irritation potential
MediumAllergen risk
HighPregnancy
CautionThe Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Essential Oils (Mix) should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Use with caution in: sensitive, dry.
Essential Oils (Mix) has moderate irritation potential. Sensitive skin may show a transient reaction that usually settles with adaptation.
Essential Oils (Mix) has high allergen potential. Perform a patch test on the inner forearm 24 hours before facial application.
Volatile aromatic compounds from plants.
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Use with caution
The INCI name is Essential Oils.