C12 saturated fatty acid – a soap-base component and co-solvent. May be comedogenic at high concentrations.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Functional component. Safety confirmed by CIR.
Lauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid with 12 carbon atoms (C12). It occurs naturally in coconut oil (45-55%), palm kernel oil, bay laurel, and in small amounts in breast milk. In cosmetics, it is the starting material for soaps, nonionic and anionic surfactants, emollients, and foam boosters. Where it is used. Soaps and cleansers (10-20%), cleansing oils, balms, oily-skin products, shampoos. In finished products it more often appears as derivatives: Sodium Laurate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Polysorbate 20. Free lauric acid sits at 1-15% and is mostly declared in clean-beauty and small-batch formulas. Comedogenicity. Fulton scale 4 of 5 for the free acid – meaningful for acne-prone patients and those with closed comedones. As a soap salt (Sodium Laurate, Potassium Laurate), comedogenicity drops to 0-1 because the structure changes and the product is rinsed off. Topical coconut oil, with high lauric content, can trigger pomade-style acne in susceptible patients. Evidence base. Antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus is confirmed in vitro (Nakatsuji 2009). Clinical trials of topical lauric acid as acne monotherapy do not exist – studies used monolaurin (monoglyceride of lauric acid). Evidence base C-D. Safety. Pregnancy and breastfeeding – safe for topical use. Non-toxic, non-sensitizing. Irritation is rare and mostly on mucous membranes. Practical notes. Patients with acne, perioral dermatitis, or closed comedones should avoid formulas with high percentages of coconut, bay, or palm kernel oil and free lauric acid in the top 5 INCI positions. As a C12 soap salt for body cleansing it is unproblematic. For facial products on acne-prone skin, formulas with C8-C10 glycerides (caprylic/capric triglyceride) or oleic acid derivatives are a better choice.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeThe Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Lauric Acid is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Lauric Acid suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
C12 saturated fatty acid – a soap-base component and co-solvent.
On the Fulton scale 3/5 – moderate comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Lauric Acid. It may also appear as: C12 Fatty Acid, лауриновая кислота.
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