Polysorbate 20

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Low

Pregnancy

Safe

Suitable for

Oily, Dry, Sensitive, Combination, Normal

About this ingredient

Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant produced by esterifying sorbitol with lauric acid and ethoxylating the result with about 20 ethylene oxide units. The chemical name is polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate. INCI name is Polysorbate 20. In skincare and cosmetics, Polysorbate 20 disperses essential oils, fragrance, and lipophilic actives in water-based formulas: toners, micellar waters, hair sprays, and lightweight gels. Typical use concentration is 0.1% to 5%. At higher levels it can cleanse the skin like a mild surfactant, but it is rarely used as a primary cleanser because of low foam. Pregnancy safety. Polysorbate 20 is considered safe during pregnancy at standard cosmetic and pharmaceutical concentrations. Skin absorption is minimal and the molecule is biologically inert on the skin barrier. There are no documented teratogenic effects in the literature. Side effects on skin. Polysorbate 20 has a low irritation profile and a low allergen risk. People with very compromised skin barriers or fragrance allergies sometimes react not to Polysorbate 20 itself but to the essential oils it solubilizes. The ingredient is non-comedogenic in finished products and suits sensitive and acne-prone skin. Comparison with Polysorbate 80. Both belong to the same emulsifier family. Polysorbate 80 comes from oleic acid and feels slightly more emollient. Polysorbate 20 is lighter and more water-soluble, which makes it the default choice for clear gels and aqueous fragrances. Pharmaceutical and food uses. Polysorbate 20 stabilizes injectable biologics and protein drugs by preventing aggregation at the air-liquid interface. It also appears as an emulsifier in ice cream and salad dressings under the food code E432. Regulatory status. Approved by the FDA, EFSA, and the EU Cosmetic Regulation as a safe cosmetic and food additive. CIR last reviewed it in 2015 with a safe verdict. Bottom line. Polysorbate 20 is one of the most reliable mild emulsifiers in cosmetics. Pregnancy-safe, low-irritation, low-allergen, and effective from 0.5% upward.

Frequently asked questions