Modified clay (hectorite) with an organic cation. Thickens anhydrous oil formulas – the base of liquid lipsticks, gel mascaras, oil-based mineral sunscreens. Often paired with propylene carbonate (activator). Does not act on or penetrate the skin.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Functional thickener for oil systems. Hectorite safety confirmed by CIR.
Stearalkonium Hectorite (Bentone 38) is a modified clay (hectorite) with a long-chain quaternary ammonium cation. Used as a thickener for anhydrous oil formulas. Mechanism. With an activator (propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol) the clay platelets swell in oil and form a thixotropic gel. This thickens pure oil systems without water. Where applied. Liquid lipsticks, gel mascaras, oil-based mineral sunscreens, primers. Rare in skincare, mostly in colour cosmetics. Safety. CIR confirmed safety at cosmetic concentrations. Does not act on skin, does not penetrate, non-comedogenic. Pregnancy and lactation – safe.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
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Stearalkonium Hectorite is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Stearalkonium Hectorite suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
Modified clay (hectorite) with an organic cation.
The INCI name is Stearalkonium Hectorite. It may also appear as: Стеаралкониум гекторит, Bentone 38.
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