Squalene
Unsaturated hydrocarbon and a natural sebum component. Unlike squalane, it is unstable and oxidizes rapidly, limiting its use in pure form.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Emollient properties confirmed in small studies. Oxidized squalene can trigger comedogenesis, which is why formulas typically use stable squalane instead.
- Huang ZR et al. Molecules. 2009;14(1):540-554. PMID 19169201
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Dry, Normal, Combination
- Use with caution
- Oily
About this ingredient
Squalene (C30H50) is an unsaturated hydrocarbon, a natural sebum component: it accounts for about 12% of the sebum lipid fraction. Unlike squalane it has six double bonds and therefore oxidises in air. Mechanism. Biomimetic sebum lipid: restores the emollient film, retains moisture, supports barrier function. On oxidation it forms peroxides, linked to pro-comedogenic effects in acne patients – which is why stable formulas substitute hydrogenated squalane. Where applied. Less common than squalane due to instability. In small concentrations in premium serums with an antioxidant stabilisation system (vit E, BHT, rutin) and in facial oils. Evidence base. In young skin squalene is a normal barrier component. Studies of oxidised squalene (Picardo 2009) show links to follicular inflammation and comedone formation – one rationale for substitution with squalane. Safety. CIR confirmed safety at cosmetic concentrations. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic when fresh. Oxidised squalene is pro-comedogenic in acne patients. Pregnancy and lactation – safe topically in fresh formulas.
Frequently asked questions
Is Squalene safe during pregnancy?
Squalene is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Squalene for?
Squalene suits: dry, normal, combination. Use with caution in: oily.
What is Squalene and what does it do in cosmetics?
Unsaturated hydrocarbon and a natural sebum component.
What's the INCI name for Squalene?
The INCI name is Squalene.
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