Unsaturated hydrocarbon and a natural sebum component. Unlike squalane, it is unstable and oxidizes rapidly, limiting its use in pure form.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Emollient properties confirmed in small studies. Oxidized squalene can trigger comedogenesis, which is why formulas typically use stable squalane instead.
Squalene (C30H50) is an unsaturated hydrocarbon, a natural sebum component: it accounts for about 12% of the sebum lipid fraction. Unlike squalane it has six double bonds and therefore oxidises in air. Mechanism. Biomimetic sebum lipid: restores the emollient film, retains moisture, supports barrier function. On oxidation it forms peroxides, linked to pro-comedogenic effects in acne patients – which is why stable formulas substitute hydrogenated squalane. Where applied. Less common than squalane due to instability. In small concentrations in premium serums with an antioxidant stabilisation system (vit E, BHT, rutin) and in facial oils. Evidence base. In young skin squalene is a normal barrier component. Studies of oxidised squalene (Picardo 2009) show links to follicular inflammation and comedone formation – one rationale for substitution with squalane. Safety. CIR confirmed safety at cosmetic concentrations. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic when fresh. Oxidised squalene is pro-comedogenic in acne patients. Pregnancy and lactation – safe topically in fresh formulas.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
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Squalene is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Squalene suits: dry, normal, combination. Use with caution in: oily.
Unsaturated hydrocarbon and a natural sebum component.
The INCI name is Squalene. It may also appear as: Сквален.
Published: · updated:
Use with caution