Three generations of filters

Not all UV filters are equal. Between octocrylene from a 2008 tube and Tinosorb A2B in a modern Asian sunscreen lies a twenty-year technology gap.

MODERN

Designed in the 1990s–2010s for broad UVA+UVB and high photostability.

  • Tinosorb S – 290–400 nm, photostable, stabilizes other filters.
  • Tinosorb M – organo-mineral hybrid, UVA+UVB.
  • Tinosorb A2B – new, fills short-wave UVB gap.
  • DHHB – pure UVA, photostable.
  • Mexoryl XL / SX – L'Oréal patents, UVA+UVB.
  • Uvinul T 150 – strongest UVB filter per percent on the market.

Tinosorb S ingredient page.

LEGACY

Approved but outclassed or carrying baggage.

Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate)

  • Endocrine activity in vivo (Klammer et al., 2007).
  • Photo-unstable: loses 40% in 35 minutes of sun.
  • Banned in Hawaii and Palau since 2021.

octinoxate page.

Homosalate

SCCS capped at 7.34% in the EU (2021) over hormonal concerns. FDA allowed 15% until 2023.

Octisalate

Weak UVB filter, usually a stabilizer partner. No safety issues, just takes formula space.

Ensulizole

Water-soluble UVB, generates free radicals under sun (Allen et al., 1996).

DISCOURAGED

Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3)

  • Matta et al., 2019 (JAMA 321:2082) – plasma absorption 188x above FDA 0.5 ng/mL threshold after 4 days.
  • Downs et al., 2016 – reef damage at 62 ppt.
  • Banned in Hawaii, Palau, Key West.

oxybenzone page.

Octocrylene

  • Downs et al., 2021 – degrades into benzophenone on storage over one year. Benzophenone: IARC 2B.
  • Year-old tube with octocrylene = tube with benzophenone.

Avobenzone

Not dangerous per se, but photo-unstable – loses 36% in an hour under UVA (Gaspar & Maia Campos, 2006) unless stabilized by Tinosorb S or octocrylene.

What to look for

A good 2026 sunscreen has at least two modern filters. Working combos:

  • Tinosorb S + Uvinul T 150 + DHHB.
  • Mexoryl XL + Mexoryl SX + Uvinul T 150.
  • Mineral: Zinc Oxide 15–25%.

Skip:

  • Octinoxate + avobenzone only – that's a 2005 formula.
  • Oxybenzone in the top – put it back.
  • Octocrylene as first filter – check freshness.

The US problem

FDA has not approved a new organic filter in 20 years. US sunscreens in 2026 lag behind EU and Asian ones by a decade in chemistry. The EU, Japan and Korea had Tinosorb S on mass market in the 2000s. If you buy abroad, read the INCI carefully.