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Cocoa Butter

Solid plant butter from cocoa beans. Melts with skin warmth, gives a dense occlusive film and softens dry areas well.

INCI: Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Evidence by route

C

Topical application

A large Lancet RCT showed that cocoa butter does not prevent pregnancy stretch marks, though it moisturizes the skin. Oily skin handles the heavy texture poorly.

How to read tiers A–F
  • CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Safe
Suitable for
Dry, Normal
Use with caution
Oily, Combination

About this ingredient

Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter) is a solid plant fat from Theobroma cacao seeds. Made by cold or hot pressing. Composition: oleic acid (35%), stearic (35%), palmitic (25%), linoleic (3-4%), plus polyphenols (theobromine, caffeine), vitamin E. Melts at 32-35 °C – exactly on skin contact. Where applied. Nourishing face and body creams, lip balms, lipsticks, stretch-mark products, cold-process soaps. Concentration 5-100% (as pure butter). In Spain – Palmer's Cocoa Butter, Body Shop, niche soap makers, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+. Mechanism. Forms an occlusive film – retains moisture, protects from external irritants. Fatty acids (stearic, palmitic) integrate into stratum corneum lipid matrix. Polyphenols and vitamin E – antioxidants, partly neutralize free radicals. Evidence base. RCT for pregnancy stretch-mark prevention (Buchanan 2010, n=175): cocoa butter no better than placebo. Cochrane 2013 review on topical agents for pregnancy striae: no ingredient has convincing prevention evidence. Effect is mostly symptomatic comfort from dryness. Comedogenicity controversy. Cocoa butter is comedogenic – Fulton 1989 score 3-4, revised to "moderate" in current reviews (ESCD 2020). In acne-prone patients it may trigger flares. Do not apply to acne-prone face. Safety. CIR confirmed safety across all concentrations. Allergic reactions are rare, isolated cases described in cocoa-bean-allergic patients. Does not photosensitize. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Acceptable at any stage on any area, including breast and nipples during breastfeeding. Marketed as a "pregnancy stretch-mark remedy" – no real efficacy, but safe as a standard emollient. Suitable for. Dry, weather-damaged body skin, lips, cuticles. On face – only patients with normal/dry skin without acne tendency. Atopics – suitable. Oily and acne-prone skin – avoid on the face.

Frequently asked questions

Is Cocoa Butter safe during pregnancy?

Cocoa Butter is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.

What skin types is Cocoa Butter for?

Cocoa Butter suits: dry, normal. Use with caution in: oily, combination.

What is Cocoa Butter and what does it do in cosmetics?

Solid plant butter from cocoa beans.

Is Cocoa Butter comedogenic?

On the Fulton scale 4/5 – high comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.

What's the INCI name for Cocoa Butter?

The INCI name is Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter. It may also appear as: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter.

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