Large protein (~300 kDa MW); does not penetrate the stratum corneum intact and acts only as a surface humectant / film-former.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Molecular size prevents dermal penetration. Surface hydration effect is plausible; topical application has not been shown to stimulate endogenous collagen synthesis.
Collagen is a fibrillar protein of connective tissue, the main structural component of dermis, bone, tendon, cartilage. Molecular weight is about 300 kDa, a triple helix of three α-chains. Skin collagen decreases by 1% per year after 25, and by 30% in the first 5 years of menopause. Mechanism in cosmetics. The molecule is too large to cross the stratum corneum. On skin it works only as a surface humectant and film-former – binds water, temporarily smooths, gives matte tone. Claims that 'collagen penetrates the dermis and builds new collagen' are marketing without confirmation. Where applied. Masks, serums and creams with an 'anti-age' marketing angle, sheet masks in Asian lines. In Spain – in budget Mercadona Deliplus creams, Babaria, Sesderma ampoules. Also as an oral supplement – here there is a small separate evidence base for improving skin hydration with oral collagen hydrolysate. Evidence base. Topical data are weak: Sionkowska 2017 found a moderate humectant effect comparable to glycerin, with no advantage on other parameters. Oral collagen hydrolysate 2.5-10 g/day improves skin hydration and elasticity over 8-12 weeks (Choi 2019 meta-analysis), but this doesn't apply to topical use. Safety. CIR confirmed safety. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic. Fish collagen occasionally triggers allergy in fish-allergic patients. Pregnancy and lactation – safe topically. Oral supplements: discuss with a physician, since supplement quality varies. Best suited to: dry, dehydrated skin as one humectant in a formula. Don't expect miracles from a 'collagen cream' against wrinkles – real work on the collagen scaffold is done by retinoids, acids, and fractional procedures.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeThe Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Collagen is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Large protein (~300 kDa MW); does not penetrate the stratum corneum intact and acts only as a surface humectant / film-former.
The INCI name is Collagen. It may also appear as: Коллаген, Soluble Collagen.
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