Evigrade

Hydroxyethyl Urea

A urea derivative – a strong NMF-class humectant. Holds water in the stratum corneum better than glycerin without stickiness or irritation. Pregnancy-safe.

Evidence by route

B

Topical application

NMF humectant, outperforms glycerin in water retention. Low irritation risk.

  • Akzo Nobel Hydrovance technical data and clinical studies, 2008.
  • Loden M et al. Hydration of human skin and topical humectants. Skin Res Technol 2003. PMID 14572299
How to read tiers A–F
  • BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Safe
Suitable for
Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive

About this ingredient

Hydroxyethyl Urea is a urea derivative in which one hydrogen atom is replaced by a 2-hydroxyethyl group. INCI: Hydroxyethyl Urea. Sold under the Hydrovance brand (Akzo Nobel). A colorless viscous liquid, miscible with water. In cosmetics it works as a strong humectant – a component of the skin's NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). It outperforms glycerin in water-binding capacity without leaving a sticky feel. Unlike classical urea it has no unpleasant odor on decomposition and does not acidify the formula. Use levels run from 1 to 10%. Pregnancy safety. Skin absorption into the systemic circulation is minimal. The manufacturer ran skin and systemic safety tests – no effects described. Skin profile. Low irritation potential. Very low allergen risk. Non-comedogenic. Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated and atopic. Unlike 5-10% urea it has no keratolytic effect – a pure humectant. No active effects on collagen or pigmentation, but by improving hydration it is often mentioned in anti-aging formulas.

Frequently asked questions

Is Hydroxyethyl Urea safe during pregnancy?

Hydroxyethyl Urea is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.

What skin types is Hydroxyethyl Urea for?

Hydroxyethyl Urea suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.

What is Hydroxyethyl Urea and what does it do in cosmetics?

A urea derivative – a strong NMF-class humectant.

Is Hydroxyethyl Urea comedogenic?

On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.

What's the INCI name for Hydroxyethyl Urea?

The INCI name is Hydroxyethyl Urea. It may also appear as: Hydrovance.

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