Hydroxyethylurea
Humectant, a urea relative. Attracts moisture into the stratum corneum and softens the skin without a drying effect.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Works more gently than classic urea and rarely causes tingling. Fits sensitive skin and eye-area products.
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Hydroxyethylurea is a urea derivative with an extra hydroxyethyl group. Designed as a more stable humectant than plain urea – does not release ammonia on degradation and is easier to formulate. Mechanism. Humectant: binds water in the stratum corneum and retains it there. Less potent than pure urea (carbamide) and glycerin but gives a softer skin feel and avoids the "stinging" common with urea on a damaged barrier. Where applied. Moisturizing serums, creams, body and hand products (2-10%). In Spain in Sesderma Urea, Acofarderm Urea, Roc Multi Correxion. Often combined with plain urea for two-component hydration. Evidence base. Few direct clinical RCTs on hydroxyethylurea specifically. Data extrapolated from plain urea – improved barrier function and reduced TEWL on dry and atopic skin (Loden 2003, Pan 2013). Safety. CIR rated hydroxyethylurea safe at cosmetic concentrations (2009, re-evaluated 2019). At <5% well tolerated even on sensitive skin. Pregnancy and lactation – safe topically. Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, atopic, post-procedure.
Frequently asked questions
Is Hydroxyethylurea safe during pregnancy?
Hydroxyethylurea is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Hydroxyethylurea for?
Hydroxyethylurea suits: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.
What is Hydroxyethylurea and what does it do in cosmetics?
Humectant, a urea relative.
What's the INCI name for Hydroxyethylurea?
The INCI name is Hydroxyethylurea.
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