INCI: Salix Alba Bark Extract
White willow bark extract, natural source of salicylates. Works more gently than synthetic salicylic acid and delivers a mild exfoliating effect.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Salicin concentration in the extract typically stays below the effective BHA dose. Fits as a mild alternative for combination skin.
White willow bark extract (Salix Alba Bark Extract) is a natural source of salicylates. White willow bark contains salicin – the glycoside from which salicylic acid was isolated in the 19th century, and from which Bayer synthesized acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin). Composition. Salicin (0.5-10% depending on bark part and extraction method), related salicyloids (fragilin, populin, tremulacin), flavonoids, tannins. In skin, salicin is partially converted to salicylic acid by gut microflora (when taken orally) or skin enzymes (when applied topically). Where applied. Toners and serums for problem skin as 'natural BHA', products for post-acne marks, oily skin products, formulas with 'clean beauty' positioning (0.5-5%). In Spain – in Pranarom, Sesderma lines, in niche natural brands. Often combined with salicylic acid for enhanced effect. Evidence base. Few direct clinical RCTs of topical willow extract in cosmetics. The effect is milder than synthetic salicylic acid – due to low salicylic acid concentration in the bark and incomplete conversion. The 'natural alternative to salicylic acid' marketing is exaggerated; serious anti-acne action requires actual 2% salicylic acid. Activity controversy. Salicylic acid concentrations formed in skin from willow bark are dozens of times lower than in pure 2% salicylic acid formulas. An aesthetically pleasing alternative for people who prioritize 'naturalness', but not an equivalent substitute. Safety. EU CosIng permits use. Allergic reactions are rare. People with salicylate allergy (aspirin sensitivity) – contraindicated. In children with chickenpox and viral illness, systemic salicin (like aspirin) can trigger Reye's syndrome – topical cosmetic use in children does not cause this issue, but strict protocols avoid. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. By analogy with salicylic acid and aspirin, avoid in the third trimester (theoretical risk of premature closure of the fetal ductus arteriosus). In the first and second trimesters at low cosmetic concentrations no restrictions apply.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
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Salix Alba Bark Extract (White Willow) should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Salix Alba Bark Extract (White Willow) suits: normal, oily, combination. Use with caution in: sensitive.
White willow bark extract, natural source of salicylates.
The INCI name is Salix Alba Bark Extract. It may also appear as: Salix Alba (White Willow) Bark Extract, White Willow Bark Extract.
Published: · updated:
Suitable for
Use with caution