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Propolis

Resinous substance bees collect from tree buds. Contains flavonoids, phenolic acids, and esters with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity.

INCI: Propolis Extract

Evidence by route

B

Topical application

Small clinical studies show antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects in acne. Chemical composition varies widely by geography, making standardization difficult. Rigorous RCTs are scarce.

  • Mazzarello V, Donadu MG, Ferrari M, et al. Treatment of acne with a combination of propolis, tea tree oil, and Aloe vera compared to erythromycin cream: two double-blind investigations. Clin Pharmacol. 2018;10:175-181.. PMID 30588129
How to read tiers A–F
  • BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Moderate
Pregnancy
Unknown
Suitable for
Oily, Combination, Normal
Use with caution
Sensitive

For sensitive skin

Contact allergy to propolis occurs in 1–6% on patch testing. People allergic to bee products should use with caution.

About this ingredient

Propolis Extract (bee glue) is a resinous substance bees collect from poplar, birch, aspen and willow buds. Composition is geographically variable: 50% resins, 30% wax, 10% essential oils, 5% pollen, 5% organic substances. Actives include flavonoids (galangin, pinocembrin, chrysin), phenolic acids (caffeic, ferulic), CAPE esters. Where applied. Toners, serums, lip balms, problem-skin products (0.5-5%). Especially popular in K-beauty: Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum, COSRX Propolis Light Ampoule. Mechanism. Antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, Streptococcus mutans (Mirzoeva 1997). Anti-inflammatory effect through prostaglandin synthesis suppression. Accelerates wound and erosion healing. Evidence base. Studies (Henshaw 2014, Berretta 2017) showed faster wound epithelialisation with topical 0.5-3% propolis. Cochrane Review 2017 on chronic wounds classifies propolis as "possibly effective" – moderate evidence quality. In acne: Sirin (2018) showed 30-40% reduction in inflammatory lesions over 8 weeks of 1.5% propolis. Safety – allergenic potential. Propolis is highly allergenic. Contact dermatitis is reported in 1-3% of the general population and up to 30% in beekeepers (Walgrave 2005). Cross-reactivity with balsam of Peru, colophony, CAPE esters. Patch test before regular use. Pregnancy and lactation – insufficient topical use data. Oral propolis in pregnancy has been little studied; theoretical risk of fetal allergic sensitisation via maternal antibodies. AAD gives no direct recommendation. In lactation – caution (risk of infant allergic reaction via close skin-to-skin contact after application).

Frequently asked questions

Is Propolis safe during pregnancy?

Safety data for Propolis during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.

What skin types is Propolis for?

Propolis suits: oily, combination, normal. Use with caution in: sensitive.

What is Propolis and what does it do in cosmetics?

Resinous substance bees collect from tree buds.

What's the INCI name for Propolis?

The INCI name is Propolis Extract. It may also appear as: Bee Propolis, Propolis, Extracto de propóleo.

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