INCI: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Oil from rosehip seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid. Used for scars and pigmentation.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Small clinical studies show improvement in scar appearance and hyperpigmentation. Contains trace retinoic acid, but levels are insufficient for a standard retinoid effect. Large RCTs are lacking.
Rosehip oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil) is cold-pressed rosehip seed oil. Contains 35-45% linoleic acid (omega-6), 30-40% α-linolenic acid (omega-3), plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid – a 'natural tretinoin'. The essential fatty acid ratio makes the oil one of the most effective for skin regeneration. Where applied. Serums and creams for mature skin, products for scars and stretch marks (post-acne, post-surgery, post-pregnancy), for pigmentation, dry and damaged skin (1-100%). Often as pure oil in the evening. In Spain – Trilogy, Pai, Babé, ISDIN include it in anti-age and regenerative lines. Evidence base. Valerón-Almazán 2015 in post-surgical scar patients showed improved texture and pigmentation after 12 weeks. Chile (the origin country of the crop) has accumulated clinical experience in burn and surgical wound patients. Evidence quality B for scars and pigmentation. Tretinoin-in-oil controversy. Marketing sometimes claims 'natural retinoid'. In practice – trans-retinoic acid content in oil is <0.1%, significantly below effective topical concentrations (0.025-0.1% in pharmaceuticals). However, the mere trace presence makes the oil potentially undesirable in pregnancy. Safety. CIR confirmed rosehip oil safety. Allergic reactions are rare. Comedogenic rating 1-2 – on acne-prone skin it can occasionally trigger comedones. May oxidize with improper storage (warm, in light) – check for rancid smell. Pregnancy – use with caution. Because of trace trans-retinoic acid, some guidelines recommend avoiding in the first trimester. EWG and MotherToBaby have no single verdict. Lactation – acceptable.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
CautionThe Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Rosehip Oil should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Rosehip Oil suits: dry, normal, combination. Use with caution in: oily.
Oil from rosehip seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid.
On the Fulton scale 1/5 – very low comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Rosa Canina Fruit Oil. It may also appear as: Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Масло шиповника.
Published: · updated:
Suitable for
Use with caution