Evigrade

Rosehip Oil

Oil from rosehip seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid. Used for scars and pigmentation.

INCI: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Evidence by route

C

Topical application

Small clinical studies show improvement in scar appearance and hyperpigmentation. Contains trace retinoic acid, but levels are insufficient for a standard retinoid effect. Large RCTs are lacking.

  • Belkhelladi M, Bougrine A. Rosehip extract and wound healing: A review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024;23(1):62-67.. PMID 37605366
How to read tiers A–F
  • CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Caution
Suitable for
Dry, Normal, Combination
Use with caution
Oily

About this ingredient

Rosehip oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil) is cold-pressed rosehip seed oil. Contains 35-45% linoleic acid (omega-6), 30-40% α-linolenic acid (omega-3), plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid – a 'natural tretinoin'. The essential fatty acid ratio makes the oil one of the most effective for skin regeneration. Where applied. Serums and creams for mature skin, products for scars and stretch marks (post-acne, post-surgery, post-pregnancy), for pigmentation, dry and damaged skin (1-100%). Often as pure oil in the evening. In Spain – Trilogy, Pai, Babé, ISDIN include it in anti-age and regenerative lines. Evidence base. Valerón-Almazán 2015 in post-surgical scar patients showed improved texture and pigmentation after 12 weeks. Chile (the origin country of the crop) has accumulated clinical experience in burn and surgical wound patients. Evidence quality B for scars and pigmentation. Tretinoin-in-oil controversy. Marketing sometimes claims 'natural retinoid'. In practice – trans-retinoic acid content in oil is <0.1%, significantly below effective topical concentrations (0.025-0.1% in pharmaceuticals). However, the mere trace presence makes the oil potentially undesirable in pregnancy. Safety. CIR confirmed rosehip oil safety. Allergic reactions are rare. Comedogenic rating 1-2 – on acne-prone skin it can occasionally trigger comedones. May oxidize with improper storage (warm, in light) – check for rancid smell. Pregnancy – use with caution. Because of trace trans-retinoic acid, some guidelines recommend avoiding in the first trimester. EWG and MotherToBaby have no single verdict. Lactation – acceptable.

Frequently asked questions

Is Rosehip Oil safe during pregnancy?

Rosehip Oil should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.

What skin types is Rosehip Oil for?

Rosehip Oil suits: dry, normal, combination. Use with caution in: oily.

What is Rosehip Oil and what does it do in cosmetics?

Oil from rosehip seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid.

Is Rosehip Oil comedogenic?

On the Fulton scale 1/5 – very low comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.

What's the INCI name for Rosehip Oil?

The INCI name is Rosa Canina Fruit Oil. It may also appear as: Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil.

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