Acmella Oleracea Extract

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Moderate

Pregnancy

Caution

Suitable for

Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination

Use with caution

Sensitive

About this ingredient

Acmella Oleracea Extract (paracress, jambu) is an extract of the flowers and leaves of a tropical Asteraceae plant. The active component is spilanthol, a fatty acid amide with local anesthetic and muscle-relaxing properties. Mechanism. Spilanthol briefly blocks sodium channels in cutaneous nerve endings and reversibly reduces facial muscle contraction with topical use. Produces a mild tingling and numbness in the first 5–10 minutes after application. Wrinkle smoothing lasts 4–6 hours from a single application; regular use is additive. Where applied. Anti-aging serums and creams for the forehead, glabella, periocular wrinkles, and nasolabial folds (extract concentration 2–4%). Marketed as 'natural botox'. Brands: Sesderma Acglicolic Botanic, Mesoestetic Couperend Botox-like, Antipodes, Pacifica. Evidence base. Demarne 2010 (n=20, 28 days, 2% extract) showed micro-wrinkle depth reduction up to 15% by silicone replica. Effect comparable to Argireline-type peptides and far weaker than botulinum therapy. No systemic neuromuscular effect; spilanthol does not enter circulation. Safety. CIR has not assessed the ingredient individually. Contact allergies are rare but possible in patients allergic to Asteraceae (chamomile, ragweed, mugwort). Patch test on the forearm before facial use. Avoid on broken skin. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. No direct pregnancy data, and Asteraceae are traditionally avoided in pregnancy. Alternatives: adenosine, niacinamide, peptides without a neurologic mechanism. Particularly suitable for. Patients seeking a quick visible pre-event effect without injectables. Works on the forehead, glabella, and expression lines. Not for sensitive skin or active rosacea.

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