Acmella (paracress) flower extract. Contains spilanthol – a natural myorelaxant that briefly reduces mimic contractions. A cosmetic 'botox-like' active with quick visible effect.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Manufacturer Gattefossé and in vivo studies show temporary smoothing of expression lines at 2% extract. Effect is short-lived, unlike botulinum toxin, with no cumulative long-term correction.
Acmella Oleracea Extract (paracress, jambu) is an extract of the flowers and leaves of a tropical Asteraceae plant. The active component is spilanthol, a fatty acid amide with local anesthetic and muscle-relaxing properties. Mechanism. Spilanthol briefly blocks sodium channels in cutaneous nerve endings and reversibly reduces facial muscle contraction with topical use. Produces a mild tingling and numbness in the first 5–10 minutes after application. Wrinkle smoothing lasts 4–6 hours from a single application; regular use is additive. Where applied. Anti-aging serums and creams for the forehead, glabella, periocular wrinkles, and nasolabial folds (extract concentration 2–4%). Marketed as 'natural botox'. Brands: Sesderma Acglicolic Botanic, Mesoestetic Couperend Botox-like, Antipodes, Pacifica. Evidence base. Demarne 2010 (n=20, 28 days, 2% extract) showed micro-wrinkle depth reduction up to 15% by silicone replica. Effect comparable to Argireline-type peptides and far weaker than botulinum therapy. No systemic neuromuscular effect; spilanthol does not enter circulation. Safety. CIR has not assessed the ingredient individually. Contact allergies are rare but possible in patients allergic to Asteraceae (chamomile, ragweed, mugwort). Patch test on the forearm before facial use. Avoid on broken skin. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. No direct pregnancy data, and Asteraceae are traditionally avoided in pregnancy. Alternatives: adenosine, niacinamide, peptides without a neurologic mechanism. Particularly suitable for. Patients seeking a quick visible pre-event effect without injectables. Works on the forehead, glabella, and expression lines. Not for sensitive skin or active rosacea.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
ModeratePregnancy
CautionSuitable for
Use with caution
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to iHerb, Sephora, Druni and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Acmella Oleracea Extract should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
Acmella Oleracea Extract suits: normal, dry, oily, combination. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Acmella (paracress) flower extract.
The INCI name is Acmella Oleracea Extract. It may also appear as: Spilanthes Acmella Extract, Spilanthol, Gatuline Expression.
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